Hey guys,

I'm converting a single barrel manifold I've got sitting around to multiport injection. This is just a test run because I've got the manifold sitting there and figured I'd do a cheap conversion and see how it goes before trying it on a four barrel offy manifold.

So the plan is to use a square mild steel tube as a fuel rail. I picked it up yesterday and a interesting thought came to my head. The tube itself has some surface rust on the outside but I can't really tell on the inside. So I plan to clean it out with some acetone but what should I do regarding rust proofing it? Do I need to rust proof it? I don't want any particles getting in the injectors.

The only thing I seem to be able to find the gas tank treatment POR-15. Let me know what you guys think on the subject.

This is the article I'm following on my conversion.

Thanks,
Aspen76

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76 Dodge Aspen
225 Super Six w/ Dutra True Dual Exhaust

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... AG0095.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/user/BZuko1?feature=guide

I would use aluminum so you wouldn't have to worry about rust. Also how thick is the tubing? You'd need 1/8" minimum for the o-ring width and some wiggle room, so say 1/4". That's a pretty hefty piece of steel. Or are you planning on using a bung on the rail side too?

Sure would be easier to start with some length of purpose made aluminum rail. Cut to length, tap the ends, drill the injector holes.

I think he is going to weld on bungs, so it shouldn't need to be thick steel. Personally, I would not put any kind of coating inside as it may come loose and clog your injectors. Acetone followed by phosphoric acid solution to take off internal surface rust is probably the best way, then rinse with water and coat with WD40 or PB lubricant spray to keep the rust off until you install it.

Really, the aluminum fuel rail stock is not very expensive ($10-15/ft??), so that is also a good route, as Pierre says.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

These guys sell VERY reasonably priced fuel rail, injector bungs, and other fuel injection pieces. I plan to get the "hard parts" from these guys when I get around to putting fuel injection on my brother's Duster.

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/extrusionhouse.html

Thanks for posting, Reed. Nice.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Browse the website. They have just about everything you need to build a fuel rail cheap.

Don't assume it uses standard taps or fittings, double check the ID with what you want to do with it.

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the replies. The reason I went for mild steel is because it's really cheap ($8 for 3 ft) and easy to weld on top of it's much lower thermal conductivity over aluminum (not a problem on V8s but on the /6 it will be hanging right over the top of the exhaust manifolds). It comes with its own rusting problem which is what I'm trying to figure out. (Cleaned and oiled inside, painted outside should be fine)

I am doing the bungs on the side of the fuel rail. Already bought a steel rod to attempt to make them. I bought professional machine bungs for the manifold side. That way if this fuel rail fails, I can scrap it and buy a more prepared fuel rail. Manifold will still be useable.

Thank you Dart270 for the cleaning suggestion. I will do that.

This is just an experiment to convert at a dirt cheap level. So far my total expense is $27 on fuel rail parts and $41 on injector bungs from Ross machine racing.

Thanks,
Aspen76

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76 Dodge Aspen
225 Super Six w/ Dutra True Dual Exhaust

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... AG0095.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/user/BZuko1?feature=guide

Check out this link for cleaning out the rust.
http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/show ... t+gas+tank

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Fast is fine but accuracy is final. You have to learn to take your time ... in a hurry
- Wyatt Earp

If I'd build another rail, I'd look to minimize the amount of material to absorb heat. Since exhaust and intake are on the same side, its easy to boil fuel in the rail and make for hard starting when warm. Less material means quicker cool down.

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Cheers!
Al T

Sage advice...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I've been thinking about the viability/possibility of machining plastic spacers to step the injectors away from the metal. It would have to be injector shaped with an O ring at the bottom that went into the manifold, and have a female bung shape to receive the pintle of the injector. This is just an un-researched pipe dream right now. Do you know if anyone makes such a thing? There was mention of plastic injectors in a recent thread. Does anyone know of an application for these, and are they a replacement for the standard Bosch unit we are all using now?

Sam

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90's Honda Civics and Accords have a small hard plastic insulator washer between the intake manifold injector bung and the lower injector seal . It is made of hard plastic . Most people don't know it's there because they usually don't come out when you remove the injector.

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Fast is fine but accuracy is final. You have to learn to take your time ... in a hurry
- Wyatt Earp

Now there is something to think about. I wonder if the computer jockies behind the counter of a Honda Dealer would be able to figure out what you were talking about if you went in and asked for that. My guess is you would have to machine your manifold to accept a different size O ring.

My BMW 2.8 slant has a plastic intake manifold. At least it looks, and feels like plastic. I have never tried to scratch it, or dent it. Both our Scions have what looks like plastic intakes. There is something else to dream about. Would a 3-D printer be of any use here? Is the plastic material generated heat proof? And is there a scanner of some kind that can scan a prototype?

More crazy dreams.

Sam

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The 5.7 Hemi intake on my '05 Magnum is plastic, too.
The plastics they use for 3D printers soften and melt at too low a temperature for be useful to use under the hood. That's what makes them useful in a 3D printer

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,31772,31789

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'64 Dodge 440
'65 Dart wagon
'14 Chrysler Town and Country