What size is the upper ball joint nut (socket size) for an A-body?

I noticed that if one buys an "A-body" upper ball joint socket with 1/2 drive (no size specified) they are like $40; but the 3/4 inch drive impact sockets for ball joints are only $15. I imagine that's why they don't specify the size on the former, only call them "A-body" sockets - a 1/2 to 3/4 inch drive adapter is only $5.

So only $20 for the adapter and 3/4 inch drive impact socket so I can use my 1/2 drive set, vs $40 for the "A-body" ball joint socket. I may even have a 1/2 to 3/4 inch adapter lying around...what size is the ball joint nut?

Thanks all,

BG

The Mentors on this forum who have much more experience may give you better ideas, but I can tell you what works for my '74, 75, & 76 Darts: Mac Tools #SC 29 is a ball joint socket, the only one I've found to fit tight enough to work on old rusted original upper ball joints. I think it is a weird size, and definitely a weird shape, and 3/4" drive. Other tools I used: 3/4" breaker bar (cheap one from Harbor Freight, 1/2" drive is too wimpy), PB Blaster penetrating oil (really good stuff), propane torch to heat the rusted X!X!!X! parts, two kids pulling on a 5 foot pipe fitted on the breaker bar. Also an 8 ounce hammer. After lots of penetrant soaking, I heated the outer surfaces with the torch, tapped the SC 29 socket on the ball joint firmly, and while the breaker bar and pipe is being pulled on like crazy by my two kids and myself, a few firm taps of the hammer on top of the socket and "twang"- the ball joints broke free. Not a guaranteed system, but it worked for me. Two serious dangers to guard against: your language with the kids (or sensitive helpers), and don't pull the car off the jack stands!

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

There should be two socket sizes, one for the earlier ball joints and 9" drum brake equipped late cars, and the larger size for the late cars with 10" drum/disk brake (and other bodies with larger brakes). On the late cars the minimum torque to install per manual is 185+ ft/lbs for the large balljoint, so a 3/4" drive will be required.

-D.Idiot

KH disk brake cars with 14" wheels also used small ball joint.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Looks like I'll need both sockets, because I have to take off the small ball joints and install the large ones...

3/4 inch drive OK, I'll go with those.

Bg

I may be wrong, but large ball joint won't fit into small ball joint UCA it is 1/8th inch or so in diameter too fat. Spindle and or steering knuckle used with small ball joint will need to be reamed if using KH disk brake knuckle, or large ball joint unit sourced from 1973 and newer.

Chrysler uses a 7 1/2 degree tapered hole on steering components. GM and others use 10 degree taper, the two different pitches will not comingle.

Speedway Motors stocks reasonably priced reams, and a nice comprehensive parts and tool catalog for the hard core car guy.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I actually only need the larger one, 1 59/64, for the later ball joint, as I won't be using the earlier arms, I don't need to take out the ball joints from them...

bg

THANK YOU

I BEEN TRYING FOR 3 DAYS TO GET A TOOLS OR A SHOP TO TAKE
THE NUT OFF MY 1963 VALIANT UPPER CONTROL ARM.
THE MANUAL CALL FOR A TOOL C-3714 FOR A VALINAT, GOOD LUCK FINDING THE TOOL.

DENNIS

Well, it might not be considered proper, but I'll tell Ya how I got mine off.
I grabbed the biggest 'Pipe Wrench' I could find(about 2 foot long) & a piece of pipe from a cyclone fence(about 3 foot long). I slid the makeshift breaker bar over the end of the pipe wrench & pulled like hell. Oh it was a bit of a Bizznatch, but ones got to expect a battle. After all they probably hadn't been changed in over 35 years, but I got them both off without issue & after watching my friend snap his name brand breaker-bar into at the drive, we both realized a Big Pipe Wrench & an even bigger Breaker Bar was in order.
PS: Notice the front end alignment on my Viper Red 74 Dart :

Here is an old thread on the subject:

Ball Joint Socket

BTW, these sockets are made for 3/4" socket drive.



Olaf

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Aspenized

LOL I keep a 4' and a 6' pipe as cheater bars. When using the 6' bar, I can generate enough force to slide the car around on jack stands. I use the correct size socket with adapter on a ½" drive breaker bar. The keys for me are to clean the area around the UBJ so the socket fully engages it and to soak the UBJ with KROIL.

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You can't fix stupid. - Ron White

I just used a big a$$ adjustable wrench with a cheater. Cleaned the threads good before hand.

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ifyoubegintothinkyou'relosingcontrol...it'salreadygone

I've got both ball joint sockets and have always used my HD Craftsman impact gun to remove them. It's always worked no matter how old and crusty everything was.

_________________
65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014

BTW, a 2-1/4" 4WD 4-prong wheel bearing nut socket for $20 or less works perfectly on the larger BJ's.... the ones that are 2-9/64" across the flats. (No, they don't damage anything, and can be found for $10-$15 some places.)

See here: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0195

I'll 2nd the impact wrench.... works 1st time, every time.