Did you leave the old fuel pump where it was when you went to the electric? Or did you block it off? If so what block-off plate fits. My Walbro is coming soon and I have to find one I guess. Originally i think I may leave it there if nothing happens.

the mechanical pump is still in there. i am planning on using a block off plate but havent gotten around to it yet. i believe they are pretty much standard. sbc and sbf block off plates should work. i was probably just going to make one.

Perfect. I found a ford one but couldnt tell if there was much of a difference to any of them. Bolt pattern and shape look about the same for all. I essentially wanted to leave the old one there if it wasn't going to hurt anything, just to eliminate one extra step ya know? I'd think it's only blowing a little air or something out of the feed? Or probably doing nothing.

the pump is still riding on the cam. while the drag isnt much it is still there.

got it all back together and took it for a blast. it spools much faster and pulls good. cant tell if its fighting for traction or if my clutch is at its limit. the way it pulls i wouldnt doubt either. afr's are looking good. gonna shoot for 12psi now.

ok with a little more wheel time ive determined it was the tires fighting for traction. thats a load off my mind. had them actually fry on me after taking off. never thought i would have traction issues with a slant. if you could see my face ive got a grin from ear to ear. its finally running how i wanted it to. its fast. gotta get it to a track now before something else breaks on me.

Small block Chevy does not fit. Use big block Chevy. I think some Fords are the same.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I found a Ford one that was kinda cheap and claimed to fit a slant six. If it doesn't, ill just leave the pump and go from there...

Junior, did you reincorporate the secondaries and still get it running good? Or is this still off the primaries? If it's just the primaries... I'd say you have a good baseline for my 2 barrel setup maybe.

secondaries are hooked back up. put the 86's back in and took the vte off of the secondaries. i turned up the boost a little and it is leaning out slightly on the top end. gonna open up the pvcr's a little more eventually. the primary setup with the vte, the pvcr's and the 70 jet should be a solid baseline for a 2bbl with similar sized venturis.

so in the course of turning up the boost it has leaned out a little bit. gonna drill out the pvcr's a little more. gonna try a different brpv too. ill throw up some pics of that when i get it done. still running like a champ. really happy with the results.

When you get a good one, make a copy and I'll buy it. lol

i have some faith in the one i just made. gonna test it out and see if/how it works. if its good i might make a couple to sell.

took another crack at a brpv. im pretty sure the one i have is working but i think this setup will take away any doubt. the one i have in now relies on the boost under the carb (which is lower then the carb hat side) to engage the diaphragm and fight the higher boost levels in the bowl to open the valve and give me the sweet fuel my motor loves. this setup uses the boost in the bowl to fight a light spring.

pretty easy to make. you'll need a power valve, dremel, die, 5 1/16 drill bit a quarter and some jb weld.

start by taking your power valve and grinding on the diaphragm side to release the washer and diaphragm. then grind off the small brass piece in the center. pop it apart and throw away the diaphragm and washers.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140928_210528_zpsge9to3mj.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140928_210528_zpsge9to3mj.jpg"/>

go in from the diaphragm side and use the drill bit to make a seat for the valve. you only need to drill down a little bit. just enough to make a seat for the valve. once i drilled the seat i put the brass piece in a drill while it was in the housing and spun it to get the valve to seal. once you get a wear pattern on the brass piece grind off the extra. that should help it flow a little better and give it some room to seat properly.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140928_210558_zpsmhojonv8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140928_210558_zpsmhojonv8.jpg"/>

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140928_215614_zpslfqnv09j.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140928_215614_zpslfqnv09j.jpg"/>
your brass piece should look something like this without the extra threads.(this was the first one i made. the long threads hung up on the 4 centering pieces of metal so i made another one and only went half way with the threads this time, it took care of that problem)


<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140928_210653_zpspoifkm94.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140928_210653_zpspoifkm94.jpg"/>
see the little bit of room around the brass valve? you will need to grind off the original threads. you can leave some to limit the travel of the valve. this is the final setup on the brass piece. you can see how far the threads go in the first picture.

ok now back to the housing. the thread i got this idea from used a nickle and jb weld to take up the difference. it will work but i wanted something with a little better fit. i ground down a quarter to fit in there snuggly.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140928_210702_zpsjkbtfenh.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140928_210702_zpsjkbtfenh.jpg"/>

once you check the clearance and get the fit you want put a thin bead of jb weld in there and press the quarter or nickle in there. i smeared a little more all around the edge and pushed it in to ensure a good seal. now another reason i used the quarter was to use a mechanical lock. you wont be able to do that if you use a nickle. i like jb weld and have used it for many things but i just dont trust in by itself to hold up in this situation.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140928_212749_zpsw7rnqhmm.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140928_212749_zpsw7rnqhmm.jpg"/>
you can see the small notches i used to make the mechanical lock. its in there tight and the jb weld should be capable of keeping the seal.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140928_210638_zpswirohipv.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140928_210638_zpswirohipv.jpg"/>
basically finished product. you can use locktight to stop the brass nut from spinning. im going to get is set and squeeze it with some visegrips. gonna give it a try and see if it works or how well it works. ill report back with info when it get it.

Very cool. I always saw the nickle modification myself, and when I compared a nickle to the three PV's I have lying around it always seemed to small. I wonder if a better way would be to get a washer and weld the center shut then grind it off to make an exact fit somehow. The quarter looks a lot better than the nickle. That's for sure. Good work so far.

seems like a lot of work for the same end result. would cost about the same considering supplies. now if you had an electrician friend then the plugs that break out of electrical boxes might be a pretty close fit. if i remember right they were slightly smaller then a quarter and they would be free. fwiw i got the fit pretty good. it got stuck in there a few times while i was eyeing everything up.