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 Post subject: 2 wire distributor
PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:29 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon May 12, 2014 9:40 am
Posts: 16
Car Model:
Doing an engine swap on my '63 Valiant. Replacing the stock 170 for a later model 225. This distributor on the 225 has two wires. Is this an HEI distributor? If it is, what else will I need to get? I'm using the coil that was on the engine when I bought it, but I'm wondering if something may have been left on the previous car?

Thanks

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1963 Plymouth Valiant 225, convertible


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:36 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon May 12, 2014 9:40 am
Posts: 16
Car Model:
This engine used to have a ported vacuum switch if that helps out for the age of the engine. Or should I just consider putting the distributor off the 170 which is a 1 wire unit?

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1963 Plymouth Valiant 225, convertible


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:01 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 6:25 am
Posts: 831
Location: Tompkinsville, KY
Car Model:
If you want to get it running quickly, swap in the point style ('one wire' because the points inside are the ground path for the coil primary windings) distributor and save the electronic ignition style ('two wire' because it has a magnetic pickup inside to generate a signal to trigger a control box which in turn grounds the coil) until you have all the pieces to upgrade.

That EI distributor will work with a Chrysler style ignition or the GM HEI style.
Either way, you will need the appropriate control box and wiring harness, etc, to use the EI distributor.

Another possibility is to use the point distributor to trigger an MSD style capacitve discharge system.


Ever swap a distributor before? If not done properly your engine will not start, so read up in advance and/or get an experienced helper.

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"A mechanic is Somebody."
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:48 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:27 am
Posts: 548
Location: Waynesboro VA
Car Model:
If you got this engine from another later donor car, this is most likely the Mopar electronic ignition system. (A photo of the distributor guts with the distributor cap and rotor removed would be good to see....) You will need to get the box on the fender or firewall with a 4 or 5 wire connector that looks like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Quality-Mo ... 1403089267

Also, get the connector and the ballast resistor and its connector; it might be different on the newer car. If you get all this and decide to use this, let us know how to get it hooked up.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:55 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon May 12, 2014 9:40 am
Posts: 16
Car Model:
What other parts will I need? I have changed out distributors before. Is this one doable while the engine is in the car? It's a pretty tight fit.

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1963 Plymouth Valiant 225, convertible


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 1:51 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model:
Quote:
Is this one doable while the engine is in the car? It's a pretty tight fit
Yup, slides right out, but make note at to where rotor button is pointing before you pull out the distributor. Slant Six distributor drive is not a slot connection that has only two possible positions as found on Mopar and Chevy small block engines, but a helical gear with perhaps 8 or so teeth that mesh with the same on the camshaft. So, as you pull out the distributor its shaft & rotor will rotate a bit less than a quarter of a turn.

If you are carful making a good mark or have photo to go by it should go back in place, but often one may miss alignment by one tooth in any direction causing too much or too little advance.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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 Post subject: Note...
PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 1:45 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
That you want to examine the EI distributor first and make sure it is equipped with a vacuum advance canister, after 1981 some trucks and vans used a single connection distributor with no advance mechanisms (mechanical or vacuum) because they used the ESC system on the air cleaner)...these are a poor choice for daily driving unless you are using an aftermarket system that does the timing curve digitally, or need a locked out advance for drag racing.


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 Post subject: Note II
PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 10:59 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7417
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
How late a 225?

A '63 has a small register crankshaft. Anything '68 and later has a large register crank.

CJ


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:46 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon May 12, 2014 9:40 am
Posts: 16
Car Model:
I'm guessing the engine is out of a '72 or later. It has the ported vacuum switch? I may have screwed up the HEI module, and/or the ignitor. I'm not getting spark even with a "hotwire" to the coil. Is there a good way to troubleshoot each of these? And if they're dead, one or both, what is the ignitor part I'll need to look for? I already know what and where to get the HEI module.

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1963 Plymouth Valiant 225, convertible


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:07 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
Car Model:
I wrote two threads on Chrysler EI http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56150 & http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56222. Give them a read.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl


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