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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 9:55 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 12:59 pm
Posts: 852
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Car Model: Once owned a 1963 Dart 170 Suburban
Thought I might have posted in the wrong area, so re-posting here:

60 Valiant. 170, with the P/B auto 904.

In replacing the Park Lock cable (sheath was irreparably damaged) am trying to withdraw the park lock cable from that small 'housing' where it enters the trans and the damn thing won't budge at all.

I am following the FSM procedures exactly as they describe, yet the cable will not 'withdraw' when I insert a screwdriver in the bottom hole (plug removed) and exert pressure against the spring lock. The cable still feels completely and solidly in-place.

Is one supposed to feel 'looseness' on the cable when un-tightening the clamp nut? If so, mine is still very tight. I don't feel anything 'unclamping' when I loosen that nut. On visual inspection of where the cable enters this small housing, I cannot determine if there's anything on the outside of that housing that is supposed to un-clamp or if it's all internal? The nut tightens down on a threaded shaft that extends through the housing and sticks out the other side with a smooth end. But that shaft doesn't move or wiggle when I've loosened the clamp nut. Is it supposed to?

Tapped on the opposite end of that shaft lightly with a hammer but that seemed pointless: nothing budged, and it sounded very hard when I tapped on it, so didn't want to tap harder and damage something. Trying to pry the cable out also did nothing.

I'm thinking the cable is still clamped in place, even though I loosened the clamp nut. That would explain why it won't budge, even though I'm depressing the spring lock (at least I think I am). Do I need to remove that housing completely to figure out what's up?

Sidenote: I did release the car from the "Park" position before attempting to remove the cable, so it shouldn't be engaged.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 10:17 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:10 am
Posts: 15
Location: Saint Louis, MO, United States
Car Model:
Here's a few pictures from when I built my '64 727 (this part should basically be the same)

With the cover on: http://www.yetanotherdomain.org/64dodge ... mble10.jpg

And two pictures of what's inside:
* http://www.yetanotherdomain.org/64dodge ... emble8.jpg
* http://www.yetanotherdomain.org/64dodge ... emble9.jpg

The spring you're pushing against is the little finger of wire closest to the camera that goes through the slot in the sheath in the last picture. That wire normally rides in a groove in the cable-end and keeps it locked in place.

You do also need to loosen the clamp nut and give it a tap (I think) toward the front of the car. It may be cemented in place with dirt and varnish. It wouldn't hurt to take the cover off an see what's going on.

_________________
'64 Dodge 440
'65 Dart wagon
'14 Chrysler Town and Country


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 3:46 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 12:59 pm
Posts: 852
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Car Model: Once owned a 1963 Dart 170 Suburban
Thanks. It is, with the exception that bolt and clamp nut is reversed: your nut is on the rearward facing side you'd tap on to loosen it, and mine is facing forward, so I was tapping on the smooth end without the nut.

Wondering: the clamp nut threads onto a threaded shaft - does that shaft thread through the housing into the smooth end poking out the other side as part of the housing casing? OR if you tap on either end (the end with the nut or the smooth end), does the whole thing push through? Am I making sense?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:05 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:10 am
Posts: 15
Location: Saint Louis, MO, United States
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I don't remember how the cable clamp part comes out. I have another trans on the floor, and I'll check it out after work.

_________________
'64 Dodge 440
'65 Dart wagon
'14 Chrysler Town and Country


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 11:12 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
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Quote:
Wondering: the clamp nut threads onto a threaded shaft - does that shaft thread through the housing into the smooth end poking out the other side as part of the housing casing? OR if you tap on either end (the end with the nut or the smooth end), does the whole thing push through? Am I making sense?
If I remember correctly, you would remove the nut & gently tap on the threaded stud end to loosen/remove that "lockpin" that holds the cable sheath to the trans. The lockpin is tapered- the thickest part is the smooth end that sticks out. The nut pulls it into the trans housing where it wedges the cable end tight.

_________________
63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 12:39 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:10 am
Posts: 15
Location: Saint Louis, MO, United States
Car Model:
Without the cable in place, the clamp will slip out either way. The way it's made, it can wedge against the cable if it's forced either direction, so if tapping it one way doesn't loosen the cable, try the other direction. Worst case, if you remove the cover, you should be able to get it loose by twisting the housing around the cable.

Here's a picture of what the clamp looks like when removed from the trans:
http://www.yetanotherdomain.org/64dodge ... _clamp.jpg

The hourglass/slimmer part is where the cable goes through.

_________________
'64 Dodge 440
'65 Dart wagon
'14 Chrysler Town and Country


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 12:45 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 12:59 pm
Posts: 852
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Car Model: Once owned a 1963 Dart 170 Suburban
Thanks guys. Ended up tapping both ends (hadn't done that), and the cable loosened right up. Didn't know what the clamp looked like though - thanks for the photo. That makes sense.


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