setting up to remove the front end suspension and steering components tomorrow from the 68 Barracuda

working on the passenger side, so far:
1) removed the torison bar retaining clip
2) removed the upper bump stop
3) removed all tension from the torsion bar
4) removed the mounting nut at the lower control arm from the strut rod
5) removed the nut from the lower control arm where the LCA attaches to the K frame.

tomorrow:
6) remove the shock
7) remove the torsion bar
get the tie rod free from the steering knuckel
9) remove the bolts holding the upper control arm

with that done, I should be able to pull the upper control arm-steering knuckel-lower control arm out as an assembly

10) free the lower control arm from the steering knuckel / lower bal joint assembly as I will be having the lower control arm rebuilt and will be re-using that. I am not planning on re using the existing upper control arm or steering knuckel

is the order of the steps above correct?
any tips appreciated..

thanks

I would just loosen the nut, bar may resist your advances, and having LCA still held in place but able to wiggle around a bit makes yarding out torsion bar easer.
I would brake that free before lower control arms is flopping around, say between above #3 & #4. It is just easer not having steering knuckle moving around in three dimensions. I have found a puller works well for tie rod ends and won't beat up steering box if one were to use a pickle fork.

Also separate lower control arm from ball joint after braking tie rod end loose. You will find it easer when ball joint/ LCA assembly is still firmly attached to car to brake lower ball joint free. I use a home made tool that exerts force on lower ball joint stud as shown below. Jack up lower control arm until upper and lower ball joint's studs are aligned with each other, insert jamb tool and expand tool. Remove castle nuts and flip over so tool can rest on noncastleated side of nut, use a few washers on studs for shims, and two wrenches to expand tool between both studs. Once a goodly amount of force is applied to studs, a few good whacks with a hammer on casting holding stud will brake it free.



Is this the procedure you are going to perform? I made this repair and added stiffening plates. I can't say I notice any change in handling, but knowing one more part is now reinforced can't hurt. My lower control arms were not very sloppy, and my aftermarket anti sway bar attaches at shock bolt which I replaced with a longer grade 8 fastener. I would bet stiffening plate would make a difference if one were using a factory anti sway bar that attaches to front face of LCA.

I recommend so called HD Strut rod bushing Moog K7040 over factory one piece bushing; check Rock Auto and others for better pricing. HD bushing secures strut rod better than factory part, and provides tighter control of LCA fore & aft motion.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

thanks for the tips and video link,

getting ready to get started..

the goal for today was to get the torsion bars out,,
did that,,

https://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@ ... 539384321/

* found nearly new front brake shoes and hardware,, perhaps from 1980 when the Cooper polyglass tires were put on,,

* if anything went ez on the passenger side,, nothing was ez on the driver side.

** passenger side,, the tie rod end did uncouple with a rap of the hammer on the joint,, nothing else was a lot of trouble other than the upper control arm mount,, the rear one snapped, front is froze, I'll be figuring a way to saw the bolts..

*** driver side,, everything was a fight on this side, tie rod to knuckel froze, one bolt that holds the lower ball joint to the knucke froze,,,,
got the torsion bar free, upper and lower conbtrol arm and steering knuckle sill in place.

greasy mess of a job,, but it is about done,,

Maine rust belt solution:

Wire brush threads removing as much rust as possible, put the old penetration oil to eccentric contact area and threads, back off nut if possible, let it sit a day, test for movement with braker bar + cheater with six point socket, repeat as needed. It will come free in a few days without braking anything. Some gentile tapping with not so big hammer will help penetrating oil invade rust trapping eccentrics.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC