in a nutshell yes.

[/quote] I'm just thinking if that's the case, maybe the power valve can be avoided all-together and a spring setup like what you have and utilize a homemade valve to close the opening. [/quote]

like hooking it to the throttle linkage? the only problem with that is that it only opens when it needs too. if it were hooked up to the linkage it would or wouldnt open when it needs too.

with this setup i can change the spring and it will control when it opens. with the 2:1 ratio exhaust pressure to boost, a 6.5 power valve will open at 3.25 psi of boost. im planning on running a 10 power valve and have everything come in at 5psi. should be safe there and it wont open all the time under light throttle. hopefully.

here is a little light reading on various ways to accomplish the same thing.
http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/3 ... light=brpv

i went with the setup im putting on now because its proven. other then the chance of the power valve diaphragm rupturing its pretty much fail safe.

i dont really wanna drill the turbo so i went diggin in my junk pile. came up with a couple ideas.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_232114_zpsenxbryun.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20141202_232114_zpsenxbryun.jpg"/>

the one on the left is a piece of hollow all thread. just happens to be the right thread for the fitting. also appears to be stainless.

one on the right is a boss from some suspension piece. welded the side shut. it was a rolled piece of metal wasnt air tight. tapped some thread in there and screwed in the fitting.

going to weld one of them to the j-pipe. not sure which one yet. might dig around my scrap bin agian tomorrow in the light and see if i can come up with something else. would like to find a big nut with the right size hole and make a bung out of it. drill out the existing threads and tap the new ones i need.

Well!?
Ugh the suspense! Bout got my J pipe how I want it and debating on drilling it now that you posted this lol. Hopefully it's good news.
Patiently waiting on pins n needles

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

lol. me too. its been raining here. i dont have a garage so i have to wait for fair weather. looks like it is going to clear up tomorrow. gotta see if i have time to get the pipe off. ill update as soon as its on and tested.

ok so i didnt like the options i had. wanted something a little more substantial to weld. also decided to use brake line instead. the copper line was 1/8", didnt think it was gonna hook up to the 3/16" brake line i used in the carb. went to the hardware store and this is what i came up with. it is a 3/8" adjuster nut according to the tray i pulled it out of. finding something with the same threads as the fitting that is made of steel is next to impossible. i just ran a tap through the threads that were there to add the ones i needed. not the way i like to do things but it will work. it seals air tight.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20141207_154044_zpstjjaaowk.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20141207_154044_zpstjjaaowk.jpg"/>

clean ground and ready to go.
<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20141207_160332_zpsymcuapzn.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20141207_160332_zpsymcuapzn.jpg"/>

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20141207_160337_zpsubjhjyxc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20141207_160337_zpsubjhjyxc.jpg"/>

this was the clean side. lol.
<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20141207_160814_zpszgetwlog.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20141207_160814_zpszgetwlog.jpg"/>

not throwing it back together just yet. found this.
<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20141207_161038_zpspiootrfb.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20141207_161038_zpspiootrfb.jpg"/>

i knew going into it with this bigger turbo that the spool would be a few rpm later but i did think it took a little to long. turns out the crappy gasket i had in there wasnt sealing and giving me one hell of an exhaust leak. still holds 20psi though. didnt know it till i took the turbo off. im gonna get some remflex material and make one. its holding up really well on the j-pipe to manifold so i have no doubt it will work for this. probably gonna be at least another week until the gasket gets here and i can put it back together.

Very good, at least you are updating as you go. I have to take my j pipe in and modify a slight more to be right and thinking about adding a plug just in case.
Hate when I have leaks like that, small ones will drive ya crazy i tell you.
Keep us up to date, keep on boostin!

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

just found this for a couple more dollars then i spent on the cheap stamped steel gasket.
http://www.amazon.com/Remflex-6018-Exha ... flex+turbo

as soon as it comes in ill be boosting again.

lol. you werent joking about waiting for the update. lol. ill be update when i get it back together.

the china setup had no leaks. pretty crazy that this one did. i might run a file across the surface of the turbo to make sure its true.

this brpv is proven so getting a bung with a plug in there for now might not be a bad idea. just so if you decide to do it down the road you dont have to take your setup apart like did.

Nice find on the gasket, it's even prime two day lol
Heck ya waiting on updates. Only wanna do mine once...or as few assemblies as possible lol

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

serj22 just updated his thread on fabo. he just did a brpv. curious to see how it works. its similar to a setup ive seen where people drill down through the vent all the way into the power valve chamber and use 3/8 line with a vent tube extension to open the power valve. the down side of that setup is you have to vent the bowl back to the carb hat. he eliminated that issue with just going around it. it should work just not sure how well.

been dealing with family stuff lately. it took away any ambition i had to work on this car. i fought through it and got it back together. it is working. wound up using bake line for the feed from the exhaust to the carb. went from a little lean at boost to 10.0 on the gauge at the same. the only thing i changed was adding the line from the exhaust to the carb. didnt change the pvcr's, the power valve itself or jets from what i had them before adding the line.

it still needs to be tuned. the cruise afr's are still rich. i should be able to take a bunch of jet out of it now and just tune for the cruise. once i get that dialed in ill make up the difference with the pvcr's. kinda wish i would have done this from the start. would probably have a fully tuned and bad ass slant right about now.

my phone is charging. ill get a pic of it when its done and post it up here.

Good news.
Now if i can drill the 2bbl holley that way....
And to clarify, just use a standard PV?
Im gonna convert my metering block for set screws, then drill those for size.

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

its kinda hard to see but its there. the fitting coming from the exhaust. the coiled brake line running up next to the cold side of the turbo on up to the carb.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/Mobile%20Uploads/20141221_113646_zpsnkx1uhqu.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20141221_113646_zpsnkx1uhqu.jpg"/>

shouldnt be a problem drilling the 2bbl holley. serj22 did it in 3/8" no less.

not the standard power valve. the the standard boost referenced power valve. where the spring is holding the valve shut instead of open. something like this. the bracket is held down by the jets. the bracket holds the spring. when making the bracket make sure it clears the float. dont want that hanging up. doesnt have to look like this just needs to operate the same way.
<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/IMG_20140513_224642_667_zps60d404b9.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20140513_224642_667_zps60d404b9.jpg"/>

set screws?

Yeah the set screws would be for the metering block.
Make the pvcr take a 10-32 set screw. Then drill set screws for size of restriction you need. That way you can go up and down in sizes.

_________________
225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13