The cam attaching bolt is one of the most trouble prone items on a slant along with the torque converter attaching bolts. Why not just use a positive locking system? If you drill a hole through the head of the bolt you can safety wire it through one of the holes in the sprocket. The safety wire not only keeps the bolt from turning but helps to dampen the harmonics that make this happen. I had Stage 8 make up some 7/16 bolts with the heads machined for their locking tabs that also worked well but those heads are too thick to use with the popular cam stop device based on a rocker arm screw.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Spent the summer rebuilding my 225 and got it together and back in the car just before the rainy weather started. Got three days of good driving and then suddenly no compression. Discovered the broken pin on the cam. Wish I had known about the washer being hard to find before I welded the bolt to the sprocket. Oh well it worked but I think it is slightly off. Can't afford to replace it at this time so I'll have to deal with it for now. It prob just needs some fine tuning...

Finally all moved back from FSU. I think I may take a crack at getting the pin out of the camshaft with an easy out then put a new double roller cam sprocket on there or a whole timing set haven't decided yet. Worst case new cam and new timing components. Will Update after a clutch dump after I re-time this beast.

Kev

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