Hi Everyone!

New to the forum... excited to be here.
I hope this question isn't too redundant, but I am having my suspension rebuilt in a few weeks and I need to purchase all of the parts for the shop that is doing the work.

I've been checking out some kits on eBay that look just about complete:

Here is what I found so far:

FRONT SUSPENSION:

Master build kit. The bushings are rubber, does not come with idler arm.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1964-1965- ... 4ae12a3e3a

Poly bushing kit. I could always buy this and swap out the rubber from the above kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prothane-4-2001 ... 59&vxp=mtr

Idler arm:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moog-K414-Front ... a8&vxp=mtr

Rear leaf spring bushings (poly):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prothane-4-1017 ... 6a&vxp=mtr


The only thing that I can think of that isn't there is a U-bolt set for the rear suspension. Not sure where to find that. I'm also replacing front and rear shocks.

I'm hoping to get a little guidance or suggestions on what to get here... would hate to miss something important. If there are better options out there, I'm all ears.

Thanks,
Bill

You might want to check out PST.

You get a brick and mortar outfit that I've heard great customer service and delivery stories about.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

THe only place I would use poly bushings would be in the rear leaf spring fornt eyes. On a street driven car, poly is just too harsh and noisy for the front end. HD rubber is my choice for front suspension rubber.

i second going to a name brand source. A few years back i rebuilt the front end on my brother's 74 Duster using all Moog components purchased through rockauto.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

REED is Right On!

I pieced together my Whole Kit from RockAuto and a few other vendors.(MOOG and SPICER Professional parts)

I went with Rubber everywhere except on my UCA bushings, as I went with a Heavy Duty (QA1) Tubular Arm in place of stock.

Also you might consider the Bigger Tie-Rods and Tie Rod ends while you are replacing everything!

Are you upgrading your brakes too? (now would be a good time)

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1964 Dart GT

Do not go the cheapest route. The BJs and tie rod ends will wear out FAST. Try to get Spicer Professional, or whatever their high end is. I agree mostly about poly: Only put poly in the rear leaf bushings and the sway bar bushings, otherwise MOOG or good quality rubber everywhere else. MOOG problem solver strut rod bushings are better than other stock replacements. PST is a good outfit, as is firmfeel.com.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I just did a price comparison on Moog components,,ball joints, tie rod ends, sleeves, bushings,,for the 68 Barracuda,, between: Napa, Amazon, Summit and Rockauto..

the winner was Summit,, part by part they had competative pricing,, with orders over 99.00 and free shipping..at the bottom line they were the best deal.

Hey everyone,

Sorry not to reply sooner... the holidays and all.

I really appreciate the info on this... will start putting things together. I'll be sure to report back with photos, too.

I wish I could convert the brakes, but with new shocks and everything else, this is going to brake the bank for me right now!

Cheers!
Bill

Yeah, I forgot about sway bar bushings. Poly in thoose too. Good call Lou.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Good advice on purchasing the highest quality bushing and ball joints you can find...
This is especially true with those "big" rebuild jobs. It is "false savings" when you try to save a few buck on parts, that wear-out quickly.

The other suggestions are to change the torsion bars when the suspension is apart... especially if you have the light 6 cylinder bars.
If you are on a tight budget, I would delay buying expensive shocks and spend the $$ on a T. Bar up-grade, seeing that the shocks are much easier to add later.

If handling and "fun" driving are the goal, a brake up-grade & a front anti-sway bar should also be somewhere in your "plan".
DD

I have the same car as you.(64 Dart GT) I did a stock rebuild on the engine and transmission, added a dual master cylinder and rebuilt the whole brake system(w/ new wheel cylinders, drums and shoes). I will upgrade to disc and completely replace the suspension parts next. With the car as it is now (my Daily Driver), it will go much faster than it will stop!

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1964 Dart GT

I also did the complete suspension and steering rebuild, including a stage 1 Firm feel box, V8 torsion bars, and late-A body disk brakes on my '64 Valiant. I was able to find almost all Moog and other American made parts, and don't regret the few extra dollars to go that route. I'm not a hard driver, but my Plymouth handles and rides like a new car.

Unfortunately, when I recently rebuilt the steering and suspension on my '56 Plymouth, North American made parts were mostly impossible to find except for a couple of NOS items. The Chinese and Taiwan parts were pathetically low quality and I had to use many of my old parts as they were better than the expensive new ones available from the aftermarket.

Welcome to the forum. Don't hesitate to ask for advice putting this new stuff in. Let me give you one tip: You do not need a torsion bar removal tool. After releasing the tension, and taking the clips out of the rear of the bar, back off the front nuts until the are beyond the threads, and hit the nuts rearward to drive out the bar. They should pop right out. I do not know why the factory service manual even talks about their "special tool". It is not needed.

I have rebuilt the front end of several Mopars, several times each, and at the time kits were not available for disk brakes. The go-to approach then was the disk brake steering knuckles and adapters from 73-76 A bodies. These are now getting hard to find. There are now kits available to bolt onto your older steering knuckles for disk brakes. I would do some searches for reviews to see how well these work and if they are a good alternative to the older later model upgrade. You will like driving your old Mopar better with disk brakes. It is much nicer knowing your car will continue to go straight in a stop.

Have fun.

Sam

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Hey everyone,

Here's what I've purchased so far:

All MOOG front suspension parts, rubber. Prothane sway bar and strut rod bushings.

Prothane rear bushings.

Pitman arm is not included... is this something I should be getting?

Probably getting KYB Gas-a-Just shocks for front and back.
Looking at torsion bar sets as well.

Not going to be doing brake conversion at this time, due to $$.

Please let me know what y'all think, and if there is anything I am missing.

Cheers,
Bill

Depends on how sloppy your steering/suspension is now, and if you want it to be easier to replace, because you are already there with everything out of the way!

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1964 Dart GT

Do a price comparison between the KYB's and Bilsteins; if not too much more, go for the Blisteins. If a lot, then the KYB's are not too bad.