Since you have the head off maybe fit the head off the other engine...at least you rule out the head being the issue. I'd also have a really good look at the scored bore,does the carbon build up look different to the others? It's rare I know,but you could have a problem in that bore,crack or porosity. The first slant I rebuilt had a cracked bore due terrible core shift. Many of the other blocks I've seen have been welded at the foundry to fix casting issues. The first LA smallblock I rebuilt also had bad core shift and was welded on the head gasket face,right where the head gasket fire ring sealed. That being said they did last for all those years! I love my old Mopars but I'm very wary of these old castings and the quality control of the era.

No it doesnt look diffirent than any of the other bores except that it has a scratch. Napa wants about 200 for cam and lifters. The person before me also didnt belive in oil changes on the 81. So id have to clean it out the best I could with out sending it out to be hot tanked. I think ill drop the pan and pull #6 out and see how bad it is. I just read on here that the heads are interchangable might see what condition the other head is in and depending on the bore in #6 put somthing together till I can rebuild one of them, just hate making it work rather that making it right.

Have you done anything to the time chain cover? One of the bolts holes there is drilled to a water chamber. If you did something there, and had any problem sealing it back, it might leak internally (Besides the head, I think that can be a place were you can have an internal leak. It is a far shot, people with more experience can tell you if this makes sense).

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

No I havent but thanks for the info.

^^^ That is right; it is the timing cover bolt near the top over towards the drivers side, almost right below the t'stat.

How deep is the scratch? If not deep, I would not be too scared to run it, unless I just wanted to get things as good as possible. Is it just one vertical scratch? If so, then likely just a bit of something at one time and is now gone.

Losing 5 lbs in 10 minutes when cooling off is not much of a leak if any. What max pressure did it show, and was that running and warmed up, etc., or what?

Based on that, I am more and more inclined to think you just have too much cooling over the engine in the cold winter temps and the oil is never getting hot based on your being able to handle it after a long drive and it is still not hot.

And your large rad is effecting coolant temp.... the flow is very low due to the coldness and the t'stat barely opening, and the time spent in the large rad will be longer and the coolant re-entering the block will be cooler. That will make the lower end of the engine cooler (WHERE THE OIL IS). It is just adding to the situation of a large surface-area block exposed to a lot of very cold air, and the whole system is falling below the design temp range.

No I looked at the scratches pretty well thismorning and there not deep they dont go all the way up either. Three little ones right next to eachother. I ended up pulling the head dueto the top of the valves being pitted as were the rocker arms. I have a head off and 81 which I know it ok so im going to put that one on. It also has a 2bbl intake on it with a good carter bbd. Should I be looking for a slant six raditor? It sounds like I should.

Try changing the thermostat, and partially covering the radiator first (like diesel cars/trucks, try cardboard and cover half or 75% of it), just in case. If that solves the problem then think on a different radiator, if you want to pay for one. If not, you know what to do in cold weather.

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

^^^ The above is very well said IMO on the topic of the rad size: try the cardboard & t'stat as a troubleshooting step and then look at options if it cures the issue. When I was living in IN, and the temps got down to the -15F to +10F range for days at a time, I needed cardboard in front of even an original /6 rad. The large rad is just adding to the issue.

And if you are in a truck (think that is what you said) that exposes the block even more readily to cold air. (Once I even put carboard between the K-member front edge and the bottom of the rad core support to block that area.....) BTW, my objective was just to get decent heat output from the heater!

The scratches don't sound too bad to me..... which I can't actually see so take that opinion in perspective! That's just based on the description.

Ya I got a little excited on the scratches. I put oil in the bore and couldnt even feel them so there not an issue. Im goin to get a 195 thermostat and cover the radiator once I get it all together. I used 10 30 should I use a 5 30 or would that be too light of an oil for this engine.

5/30 should be fine. I recomend you to check this older thread, with links to oil, filter selection discussion. Then, choose one.

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... +30#264975

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Ok thanks for all of your help guys! I clicked on the link. I guess I wouldnt call indiana extremely cold so 5 30 is what ill run. I planning on running atf through it for a few minutes to clean the engine.

Interesting note from SlantSixDan on how to clean/flush... not sure if an overdoing, but FYI. It looks like everybody has a recipe for it, so it is your choice too. Have not tried it, but the thread talks about some of the risks of cleaning (i.e. plugging the filter and sending crud directly to the bearing and oil channels)

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... h&start=15

Also, the note is almost 10 year old, don't know if he has changed his mind on the mix/procedure.

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Hello.
While the head is off it might be worth checking the block for a crack between the rear most head bolt hole and the lifter / pushrod void.
If there is a crack there , the crack may extend down the threaded bolt hole to the bottom of the hole. the bottom of the hole is in the water jacket.
the water under pressure can then find its way into the headbolt threads and then through the crack into the lifter gallery ,and possibly up the bolt into the oil feed area around the shank of the bolt.
especially annoying after an engine re-build!!
Brendan

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1963 AP5 Valiant 225 PB 904 Stock except extractors & 2 1/4 inch exhaust.


1962 S series valiant 225 PB auto. factory every thing. Full restoration job.
Currently on hold till AP5 is on the road.

Put everything back and runs great. I have a mechanical temp gauge. After I shut if off while cooling off im seeing temps around 230 with a 195 thermostat. Seems high to me. What are your guys thoughts?

It is normal for coolant temps to climb after the engine is shut off since the coolant is no longer moving through the radiator and air is no loger passing through the radiator to cool the coolant. The important number is the temp you see while the engine is running. 230 while running is a proble, 230 after shutoff when hot is not a problem. This is called "heat soak."