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 Post subject: pinion seal
PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 2:09 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:08 am
Posts: 55
Location: Porter, Tx.
Car Model:
Ok, got my flex plate, and thanks, anyone got a good number for the pinion seal, I have two, but looks like I need NOS. 7.25 ... 9 bolt for the pan. 2881041 is the number on the old seal which is and was no good. The seal that is,... Possible Mopar number,...52067595.. don't know about that one,.. and a National number 8516N.. but its the wrong style. My original seal is flat faced due to the mold of the differential...

the O.D. of the face is 3 and 1/8 on the flat... the O.D. that fits into the differential itself is 2 and 9/16ths. May have found one for 63 bucks just hoping I can do better, as always thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 2:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
Car Model:
Searching ebay for 2881041 shows 3 different NOS ones ranging from $20-40 shipped.

Just looked up the national one - if the OD/ID is the same, it should work fine... all the lip/face will do is prevent it from being installed too far down the housing.


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 Post subject: thanks but....
PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 3:27 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:08 am
Posts: 55
Location: Porter, Tx.
Car Model:
not the way its going to go down, lost the pre load on the bearings. Talked with Jeff at Jaws gear, and he says once pre load is lost you have to tear down the whole of the pinion and replace bearings and races, and crush washer to re-establish proper load on them . New advise to me but for any who haven't done this sort of thing, like me, word to the wise, you must re-establish correct load on the bearings, you cannot just replace the seal. This is what I have been advised, and I am going to have to do it

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 4:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
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I don't think you'd have to replace them if they are in fair shape, but yes you would have to measure and set the preload.

I mean, it'd certainly be a good idea to do it while you have everything torn apart. I often advocate that. But if your dealing with parts with a known past and the only thing wrong was a leak (no noise, vibration, etc) then its not really necessary. If you can't get enough preload with the old bits then start replacing stuff.


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