I just installed the 1234 choke kit for my 1980 Holley 1945. I have it installed and wired up right, but the instructions don't seem to match the unit I got. I don't understand how to line up the index marks to 'center'. There are not 3 screws on the choke cover ring. I see one screw and the black choke housing can be turned by hand without loosening anything. I'm a bit confused here.

Also, the wire that goes to the old choke just stays disconnected?

TIA
Sean

If there's only one screw and you can turn the housing by hand, you're missing two screws and the index mark is somewhere on the other side of the bracket from the calibration lines.

The wire that went to the input side of the old choke control resistor goes to the new choke housing. The old choke control resistor and its wire that went to the old choke housing get removed from the car.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok I think I ran a wire I didn't need to. It goes from ignition+ to the choke housing. I could have used the choke resistor input wire right?

The other connection at the choke housing goes to the new thermostat.

Right now I have no choke at all. I don't know where the missing screws would go. There aren't any holes for them. Is there some way I can get it adjusted? I turned the choke body, did I screw it up?

Maybe they're no longer using the 3-screw design; maybe now the retainer ring has a hook-and-screw arrangement. Show us a picture of what you see. No, you didn't screw it up by turning it, you'll just have to turn it to where it needs to be to apply tension to the choke pushrod before tightening up the screw(s).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan.

I just read your thread on this choke (missing pics ). I'm going to work on it tonight armed with the knowledge from that thread. I drove to work today with no choke! Not something I want to repeat often.

I will snap a pic anyway. Possibly the screws are now rivets.

Andy

Here it is, I think the spring is backwards. I put it in the freezer and it moved toward the red C I marked on it. I found mark for centering, its in the last pic.

That is the same retainer setup that was used on the Carbsonly unit I installed on my brother's Dodge van. I used a two barrel unit,bu the adjuster is the same. If memory serves, you loosen that one screw to let the black cap rotate and you tighten the one screw to push the retainer at an angle and prevent the cap from moving.

The adjustment on these is pretty obvious. Rotating the black cap anti-clockwise will hold the choke closed longer (make it run richer). Rotating the cap clockwise will make the choke open sooner (run leaner). Set the choke so there is a very very light closing pressure on the choke butterfly valve.

The wire to the old choke goes to (+) on the black cap and the other terminal goes to ground. Unless you got one of those heat sensors with the kit. I did when I got the kit for my brother's van. I bolted it to the head and I believe it is wired into the (+) feed to the choke unit. It has been a while since I did the install, though.

thanks Reed,

I managed to reverse the spring, then broke the little piece of plastic for the rod attachment. The epoxy is drying right now. Before the reversal, the spring was pushing the choke open, now it pulls the choke closed. Like the stock unit.

Geez I'm a hack. The choke was right to begin with.

Don't feel bad; I've made that same "Hey, it's backward, I'd better take it apart and reverse it! Oops, no, it was right before I messed with it" mistake on those before.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks, feeling a little better now. I should have never messed with it before making sure. Haste makes waste in the worst way. But the choke is in there and working, with just minor adjustments left to do. My master JB welder skills came in handy!