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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 8:24 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:53 am
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So, '63 valiant 170 3speed manual. Adjusted my valves earlier. Exactly the way your supposed to. Ive finally got the motor running GREAT!!! Shut it off. Put valve cover back on, air cleaner back on. Ect. Went to start it up. It fires right up as usual but immediately shuts off. Doesnt matter how much i pump the gas. Every time the same thing. Im getting fuel. And obviously spark. Cause it fires right up. Just immediately shuts down. Any ideas????


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 8:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Faulty ignition switch, or loose connection?

Time to pull out the test light and see if the lamp goes out at your power source when you let go of the ignition switch...(or worse if you can jiggle the key and the lamp blinks on and off)...

Also suggest getting the Petersen guide Dan notes in one of his posts, it's simple and very informative on trouble shooting.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 8:37 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:53 am
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Hm. Interesting. My ignition actually stuck on earlier. First time thats happened. Maybe there is some dirt up in there. Or its going out. Cause it did stick on. And i guess now it must be shutting right off. The exact opposite. Ill check it out right now. Any other ideas???????????????


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 9:23 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:53 am
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Yup. The ignition switch is loose and it isnt staying engaged in the correct spot. Looks like its time for a new ignition switch. Bummer?!!!!!! Everytime i fix something, something else goes. Typical issues from a vehicle sitting. Glad i rescued her. Ill make her all good to go again


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 9:24 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:53 am
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Thanks DusterIdiot!!!!!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 3:51 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1824
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Did you get this to continously run?
Check/replace your ballast resistor. In key start position, the ballast resistor is bypassed throught the wiring. When the key goes back to run position, the ballast resistor is back in the circuit, and if it's bad, the ignition will die out.

Roger


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 8:22 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:25 am
Posts: 797
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
Quote:
Did you get this to continously run?
Check/replace your ballast resistor. In key start position, the ballast resistor is bypassed throught the wiring. When the key goes back to run position, the ballast resistor is back in the circuit, and if it's bad, the ignition will die out.

Roger
+1
The symptoms sound just like a failed ballast resistor.
Or maybe a ballast resistor wire accidentally got pulled loose doing the other work.

_________________
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--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 11:06 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:53 am
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Car Model:
I can hold the key in the position and keep it running. Let go of the key and it dies.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 11:09 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:53 am
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It seems to me that is an ignition problem. Right? Oh, and by the way, i love this site. And you guys are very helpful.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 11:13 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
Quote:
It seems to me that is an ignition problem. Right?
Yes.
Check the ballast resistor and all the related wiring and connectors.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 11:37 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:53 am
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Ok. I will. Almost home. Thanks all, this is my daily driver. So, its very important to get her all fixed.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 2:11 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:53 am
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So, i hooked up a starter toggle. And it doesnt work. So, that tells me that the ballast resistor is out. Otherwise it would have worked. Right? Oh, by the way, i did check out ALL of the wiring and such. Im thinking that it was just time for the ballast resistor to give out.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 2:19 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
To test, you can just bypass the ballast with a jumper wire.
If it starts and runs then you know you have zeroed in on it.
Don't run it that way for an extended period of time. You could damage the coil.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--
Image


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 2:31 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:53 am
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Jumper wire? Hm. Dont exactly know how to do that. never had to do that. But it would be very helpful to diagnose the problem. How do i do it?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 2:47 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:25 am
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
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Clip to each end of the ballast resistor, thus bypassing the resistor and completing the circuit to power the coil.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--
Image


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