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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 12:50 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 4:39 am
Posts: 519
Location: Australia
Car Model:
I wouldn't bother paying a premium price from that supplier for a bronze gear when virtually every slant in OZ came with a bosch distributor and an iron gear standard...that being said many Hemi 6 engines had the plastic gear with zero issues...you need nothing else. It's interesting that Chrysler Australia had wear issues with the oil pump gears on the Hemi engines,they have a similar drive setup to a slant,they changed from a 15 tooth gear to a 16 tooth design...or maybe it was the other way around...too long ago...I think it was called a "hunting tooth" design,where the teeth didn't constantly mesh with the same mating tooth time and time again,it fixed the issue...not that it helps your dilemma! Personally,if I were you I would get a good original cam ground to your liking and the lifters refaced,by a reputable grinder,check the teeth mesh,fit a thrust button,not that you should need it,but good insurance,and check your distributor shaft clearances and fit a new gear. Dummy it up with the timing cover off,rotate engine and see if the cam walks. Maybe even use the oil pump and matching gear that matches the cam you find for regrinding.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 4:48 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 9115
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
I know how you feel. We had 2 cam / oil pump gear failures some years back, and it isn't fun.

Find an old cam and the matching oil pump with gear and have it re-ground for $80 at Oregon cams. I did this with my sons Dart and he ran it very hard for over 50,000 miles, as well as racing it and it never gave us a problem. It will be coming apart soon and I'm anxious to see what it looks like.

As a reference I have personally seen 3, 1980 -85 trucks with the cam gear/ oil pump gear missing. So if you are searching for a good cam to regrind I would probably look back into the 70's. I just picked up a 65 engine and pulled the oil pump and the cam and gears look perfect!

Rick

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 Post subject: alignment
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:16 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
...and make sure the mesh between the gears is really good pattern.

Does anyone use an external oil pump, any luck with that?

Just curious.

brian

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 Post subject: cam button
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 10:58 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I'm searching but having trouble finding cam button install tutorials, is there a good one on this site? Ceej mentioned DD having one.

thanks,

Briian

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 Post subject: link
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 11:07 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I found this in an older string, but the link doesn't work:

A lot of good info. comes-up if you search for key words "cam button", here is the post you want:
DD
http://www.slantsix.org/cgi-bin/webbbs_ ... ?read=6061

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 2:16 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:21 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: long beach ca
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Are you sure you are putting the gears on correctly?They dont just install with the holes supplied.


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 Post subject: the pics...
PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
Are you sure you are putting the gears on correctly?They dont just install with the holes supplied.
He posted the pics in another post, he drilled a brand new hole 90 degrees in orientation and lower than the "spotting" hole, so he is installing it correctly and taking up the slop.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 4:52 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
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I don't see how the plastic dist gear can cause any wear to the cam gear, so I wouldn't worry too much about dist position/ engagement. If you checked oil pump gear engagement, then here are the only things that come to mind. 1) the metal on the cam gear is too soft (it seems to be rather difficult to find a cam supplier who can get the correct &/or decent quality cam blank). 2) the load from the oil pump is too high- do you know how much oil pressure you had - esp at higher rpm's? (but I'd expect some visible wear on the oil pump gear). 3) you don't have enough lubrication for the gears (still would expect oil pump gear wear), still DD's pump oiling mod sounds like a good idea.

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 Post subject: update
PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 11:39 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I pulled the engine and the oil pump drive gear is shot. Last time this happened, the oil pump gear looked good, but the cam gear was shredded. This time the cam gear is shredded, and the oil pump gear took a real beating but faired better than the cam.

b

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 3:34 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17299
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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I will reiterate: Take a stock cam and old stock (used) pump. Send the cam to Oregon or similar place for grinding to whatever specs you want. Install cam and pump. If the oil pump was making pressure in the engine it came out of, do not touch it, just install. Or, find a pump like that. Problem solved...

The NA Slant 6 with the record for most HP ever (to my knowledge, at least on a dyno - 370 HP on gas) used a regrind cam and old pump. My 13 sec street car runs a regrind cam and an old pump.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 5:41 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8978
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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I have never had a cam/oil pump gear failure in my engines since 1974. I do not run a high volume oil pump. Only one engine had a cam button. I have run new and used oil pumps, without hardened gears. I have never run a reground cam, only new cams. However these cams were all made in the 1970's or 1980's. I am convinced the problem is with the newer cam blanks.
That would mean, the only way to go is with a reground factory cam, and as Rick and Lou say, stay with the early blanks.

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