Hello all! It's been quite a while since I last posted- happy to be back! Looks like a lot has changed over the past few years... (I'm looking at you, boosted/nitrous page.)

I'm having an issue with my front brakes.
The issue is that my wheels won't go back on!
(Wheels' Center bore seems smaller than the hub's OD)

Some time ago, I did the disc brake swap to my '73 scamp.
Put on some big ball joint uca's, 73-76 knuckles, dr diff caliper brackets, and some loaded reman calipers.
Went together real smooth.
Worked real well.

The rotors I had originally snagged were from the wrecking yard. A late model B-body, I don't remember which one specifically... They were a little thin, but had some service life left so I ran 'em.

Last week I decided to replace the pads, and have the rotors turned.
Of course the lathe operator showed me that they were too thin to turn, and that I ought to pick up a new set.

...as suggestrd by so many of the how-to pages kicking around, I ordered a pair of rotors for a Córdoba.
The schmuck's/o'riley PN was Raybestos 7038R

I've been poking around the web looking for insight, but haven't come up with a solution just yet.
Here's another guy having problems with the same rotor, but his deal is with the foot of the pads touching the 'hat' of the rotor. (I realize that sounds oxymoronic, considering the unicast nature of our rotors)
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... er=6631359

Does anyone have experience with this kind of hub-to-wheel interference?
I'd love to get the car off stands and back on the road!

(Test)

Which wheels are you using? How close was the fit with your other rotors?

Measure the wheel then take your rotors back to the lathe guy and have him take some material off the hub.

Hi Pierre
I don't know how to answer that question. Being lug centric, I never really measured the tolerance between the hub and centerbore.
I can say that it went together without issue, and felt fine...

15" Mopar Police wheels.
I tried a set of ford 15s just to see-
Even tried a set of 17s I have kicking around.
No dice.

(14" steelies or rally wheels don't clear the caliper. I knew about that issue back before I did the swap...)

I'm not sure a brake lathe can be manipulated to cut on the hub- it's meant to cut away the friction surfaces of a rotor (or drum).
I suppose I could use a conventional type lathe; but that means knocking out wheel studs and maybe bearing races.
I'd rather find a 'less wrong' part!

Well if you only need a few thousandths off you can get away with just using rough sandpaper. If you need an 1/8th that's a different story. Maybe a handheld 4.5" grinder. I just meant to use the brake lathe as a fixture to hold and spin, yes the cutting will have to be done by something else. If your careful to do it evenly you can just turn the rotor while it's on the car but it will take longer this way.

If it were me I'd use a dremel or carbide burr with a die grinder on the wheel itself. Much less material you need to remove this way.

Otherwise have the parts store order a different brand and measure the difference with a caliper or mic.

I used the bendix 11.75" USA rotor with cragar soft 8 wheels with no issue, but their center hole is huge. Incidentally I had the same rotor hat vs pad interference too.

Sandpaper would be quite a job. It'll definitely take a cut on a lathe to do it in less than an eternity! haha

My old ones were likely OE, and the new ones I'm struggling with are the Raybestos 7038R.

Anyone know which rotors they're running in their car?

Here's a(n almost complete) PN list:


Mopar 11.75x1" brake rotor part number: 4126545

Interchange numbers, with sources:
Winhere Brake 443073
AUTO EXTRA 60474
R1 Concepts EOE.63009
TRANSGLOBE GBC5311
TRANSGLOBE GC5311
PLYMOUTH 3880614
PLYMOUTH 3880615
PLYMOUTH 4126545
AIMCO 1015311
AIMCO 5311
WAGNER BD60474
RAYBESTOS 7038
RAYBESTOS 7038R
BENDIX 141132
BENDIX PRT1132
ALLIANCE 443073
CARQUEST 5311
CENTRIC 120.63009
CENTRIC 121.63009
NAPA 4885579
PARTS MASTER 443073
PARTS MASTER 60474
PRONTO 1015311
CHRYSLER 03880614
CHRYSLER 03880615 Front Brake Rotor Indirect Details»
CHRYSLER 04126545
CHRYSLER 3880614
CHRYSLER 3880615
CHRYSLER 4126545
DODGE 3880614
DODGE 3880615
AutoZone 7038R

Problem solved.

My own damn fault. (Embarrassed)

Turns out the gold powder-coating on my police wheels was the culprate.
I tried an OE black police wheel, and it slipped right on! Guess the buildup is pretty significant on this PC job!
Don't have an explanation on why that wasn't a problem with the old rotors... Weird.

Thanks everyone for pondering my (non)issue, and thank you Pierre for taking the time to weigh in.