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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 9:27 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
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Location: clearwater florida
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That's the boat I may be in 20psi started to push water, issues started popping up. Will be pulling motor soon for some investigation and upgrades. The 190,000 were the studs I'm currently using for the past few years.

Kev

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 10:53 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
Seems like o-rings in the block are the real solution for high boost. That's what I'm planning.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 11:14 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Is there enough meat in the block and head for larger diameter studs?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 11:38 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1329
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Yes there is. In my experiences with high HP boosted or nitrous engines and engines with only 4 bolts per cylinder, this is always the weak spot in forced induction apps. Going larger with the head bolt size helps tremendously as does o-ringing the block and using copper head gaskets. Once you surpass a certain point, you just have to upgrade to better techniques and products.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 6:12 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Yes, you should be using O-rings and copper if at/over 20 psi.

4 bolts per cylinder on a ~3.46" bore is much better than 4 bolts on a 4" bore. Sometime I'll ask Tilley if he used "special" head studs on his 630 HP, 20 psi gasoline 225 motor. I don't think so... He is using copper/O-rings. Keep it out of detonation and I think you'll be OK.

Lou

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 9:18 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 758
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
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I never measured but I believe the long 455 Olds studs are the same length as the ones they sell for the Slant. I know the threads are in the right place to use them on a Slant as I and others did for many years until Doug got them to package sets just for us. When you buy the Olds set there are also some shorter studs that you don't use but there are al least 14 of the long ones. I don't know that the Olds studs are offered in the high strength material, it was just a thought.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 10:07 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1329
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
ARP used to have a chart that showed the specs of all their head and main bolts/studs so you could find the length and thread pitch of them for interchange purposes if they didn't have a specific package for the engine you were building. So that would be a good option as Seymour said.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 10:35 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
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Hmmm debating if the head studs are worth it now... Because I will be O ringing the head and block this time with the copper head gasket. Would I still need a new set of arp anyway or are my current set reusable? I've re torqued them on the motor a few times over the past couple years.

Kev

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 1:24 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat May 29, 2010 4:00 pm
Posts: 137
Location: Hastings MN
Car Model: Lancers
I'm no expert by any means but I have heard even with the o ringed block and copper gaskets the 190k studs stretch at 30lbs boost. Maybe Tom has the answer to that. He got the last order together and he seems very knowledgeable and math orientated. Maybe going to 1/2" studs is the less expensive way to go.

I got ahold of Alex today (unbelievable on the first try). He said that there are no stock sets of the 220k lb or stronger studs close in the length we would need. If we want 7/16 220k studs they would be special order.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 3:06 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
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Location: clearwater florida
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Now that ya mention I remeber Tom saying that's why he got the 220,000 ones so I will be getting them regardless of cost because I want a wheelie!

Kev

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 7:16 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2006 7:08 pm
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Location: The Hand
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At this point, I'm currently running 24psi of boost and have not had any lifting issues with the 220k psi studs. I don't lose any water like I did with the off the shelf 180k PSI units.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 1:27 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
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Location: clearwater florida
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Yep that's enough reason for me to buy them because I want 30psi :)

Kev

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Mike and Blaine converted their last nitrous motor to 1/2" studs. IIRC, the only issue was opening the holes in the head up. You had to be very cautious doing it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 1:11 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat May 29, 2010 4:00 pm
Posts: 137
Location: Hastings MN
Car Model: Lancers
I tried to get ahold of my machinist on Friday and ask what the cost of enlarging and taping the holes to 1/2". I am thinking that cost to be more than the increase in cost of the 220k studs. I will check more on Monday if there would be other benefits to increasing to 1/2". If not I will be ordering the 220k studs next week and need to know who wants a set or two. I will be ordering 2 sets.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 2:36 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 758
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
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The trouble with going up to 1/2" studs is that a 1/2-13 tap calls for a 27/64" drill which will leave some of the old threads and that will make the new threads less than perfect. They may still be better than 7/16 or maybe not. I like the idea of the high strength 7/16 studs. Put me down for one set for Ryan's new motor.

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