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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:22 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
Once you have your molds
Just go get someone to give you that price. :lol: :lol:

Rick

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 3:16 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Compromise on the billet.......

Make a mold that's solid and big enough to CNC.


Reuse the cutoff aluminum for the next pour...........

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 3:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
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Just weld one up out of sheet aluminum.....

Use thicker stuff where machining is indicated.

Take a look at a GM LS3 head....plates and tubes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1853
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
It would be rather difficult to pour a "billet" that size without internal problems. The fact that the outside of the pour would cool faster than the inside would cause shrinkage, thus pulling metal from the center to fill in the areas that are cooling and shrinking. That would leave an internal void in your "billet". Not all that good a condition to have to start with.
One may be able to mitigate the problem with a rather large shrink bob and riser.

Roger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 4:00 pm 
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Location: Burton BC canada
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Quote:
rather large shrink bob and riser.
............!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1853
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Quote:
Quote:
rather large shrink bob and riser.
............!
******************************************************

Sorry, Sandy. I sometimes forget that not everyone knows the vocabulary.
"shrink bob"; a large reservoir, hidden in the sand mold and attached closely to the actual piece one is trying to cast. Intended for the casting to draw molten metal from as it cools. Many guys will try to attach it to a gate leading directly into the mold.
"riser"; the "chute" that one pours the molten metal into. This actually feeds metal into a system of runners and gates that feed the molten metal into the shape being cast.
Compare the runners and gates to an intake and head ports, with the runners being the intake passages, and the ports in the head being the gates into the actual "working" area. They have to be planned ahead of time, as they're either carved into the sand, or modelled right along with the shape being cast, and can't be seen from the outside once the cope and drag are set back together.
Clear as mud, right?

Roger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:59 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 745
Car Model:
http://www.moparmax.com/columns/magnante/vii_1-7.html ???? dont think ive ever seen this one before.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 9:39 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1343
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Lou hit close to what it costs to have a cylinder head pattern made at around 30K. That does not get you any castings, it is strictly for the labor to create all the cores and related tooling(patterns). The engineering is another cost that is often overlooked but has to happen first and involves actually making all the blueprints and 3D models and CAD stuff so the patterns and cores can be made from, and it alone can be in excess of 10K for a cylinder head and related cores, especially if the heads ports are not symetrical and has multiple different ports for an intake or exhaust. Once cast, you still have to have the castings heat treated and machined as well as buy the seats and guides and other misc. parts to make a completed head.

Trying to go the billet route can also be expensive and be in the 4K range just for a semi-finished machined head still needing seats and guides and finished valve job and additional porting if its needed. But again, this often does not include any of the CAD or 3D modeling labor on the front end to have a workable blueprint or 3D model to export into the CAM software to create the program to machine it or any additional fixturing or tooling to machine it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 11:36 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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It sounds like an aluminum head is just going to be too darn expensive.

Let's have a titanium head instead, then.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 6:09 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Fri May 11, 2007 7:32 pm
Posts: 284
Location: Mountain View, CA
Car Model: Road Runner
Quote:
It sounds like an aluminum head is just going to be too darn expensive.

Let's have a titanium head instead, then.
They can print those now.

Seems to me that the biggest cost savings would be in duplicating the Argentinian Head and having it cast in Aluminium. But at the cost of all that, I'd be far more interested in a raised port design that really evolved the engine to the next generation. There is no reason that we shouldn't be able to get significantly more power out of the engine with a really good flowing head. Due to weight and currently attainable power output levels the slant will be a dying breed if we can't find a way to revitalize the platform. It's getting much too cheap to build a 273 or 318 to much higher levels at the same cost. I think at most times we build these engines just because we dare to be different.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 6:59 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2014 12:12 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Nevada
Car Model:
I like the impractical approach. You can't take it with you when you die so lets burn through the money. :twisted:

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 Post subject: Dan-O's approach
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 10:35 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I agree with Dan-O; if this ever gets done, there's no reason not to design it well/better than the original, otherwise what's the point?

Also, my original question was about the block. How much does the Al block weigh vs the cast block? It seems like if some day one of our ships comes in and we pull the collective trigger on this; we should do the block in aluminum as well, but designed more like the cast block, not the original Al block with the funky sealing surfaces/head gasket. Put your thinking caps on about how that block should be designed (if not a duplicate of the cast block). You know, really bring the SL6 into the 21st century, keep all the great attributes, but update the others. I'm imagining an Al block and head, Al intake with fuel injection (direct injection?), put those newly cast hyper pack exhaust manifolds to use - a real "old meets new" Sl6 we can all be proud of contributing to.

Anyone interested in a group PowerBall buy? Maybe we could do quarterly each year or perhaps just once a year. I suppose we need to get Claude's Valiant done first...

Brian

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 Post subject: Slant Six Dan...
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 10:37 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
My buddy's wife works for a titanium casting company...if they can make all those gigantic 300cc or larger golf club heads out of titanium, why not a sl6 head?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 12:39 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24803
Location: North America
Car Model:
Well, I had a dream last night that I dropped in at a wrecking yard and they had at least a dozen aluminum 225 blocks in super nice shape. Some of them appeared to be never used. I was just about to pull out my wallet and check how much cash I had with me when I woke up and was reminded that se7enine is right; not a single one of those blocks made it out of the dream with me.

Aw well…guess I will have to do it the hard way and keep working on carving myself a new block and head out of Panga Panga.

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 Post subject: wood...
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 1:04 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
Dan,

You're better off with IPE, if you're going with wood:

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-ide ... woods/ipe/

I used IPE for my deck and it's really durable (mineralized). It won't burn, termites won't eat it and you have to predrill and use SS screws with it.

b

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