For some reason my intake mani is leaking from #6 never had this problem with the 2bbl but no matter if I tighten the bolts from right to left or left to right #6 leaks more or less. (Offenhauser 4bbl)

Are you following the proper intake installation procedure? See HERE. The manifold nuts are tightened in a specific torque pattern, not in a straight line.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Which exhaust is it bolted to? If it's a stock type one that includes the 3 center holes, that alignment can be off. Or if its warped... or there's interference between the runners, one or the other manifold sometimes needs grinding.

...and if there is a warp or alignment issue and it's not too bad, you can compensate with Remflex gaskets, if you're not already using them.

See: http://catalog.remflex.com/MOPAR_Header ... p/6008.htm

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

It's stock and what do you mean by "Which exhaust is it bolted to? If it's a stock type one that includes the 3 center holes, that alignment can be off"[/quote]

He was asking if you have a stock exhaust manifold, which bolts to the intake manifold with three bolts. The article Reed posted will give you the proper procedure for attaching both of these manifolds, but the short version is that you shouldn't tighten those 3 bolts until the mounting studs to the head are snug. Otherwise the two manifolds can be misaligned and you'll get leakage at the head mounting surface.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Read the article I posted a link to. Do it. Now.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The vacuum port for the brake booster is hooked up or plugged right ? It's on the #6 runner.

Brian

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63 Plymouth Valiant Wagon

I read it but can you just plain out tell me the order because the article has a lot of information that I'm not looking for

Here is the info you are looking for from the link Reed so kindly posted for you.

"Start at the center and work outward to snug, then go back and torque the three intake-to-exhaust bolts to 22 foot pounds. Now go back and torque the head fasteners to 10-12 foot pounds of torque, again from the center outward."

Now then, these are the instructions from the link. But it says on the intake manifold maximum 10. Personally, I'd stop at 10.

The instructions also say to check them after the installation has been heated and cooled.

Thanks for the link Reed. I've done this many times, but not lately. And I'm soon doing the install again.

But it is all information you NEED. Read it and understand it. You must follow the correct manifold installation procedure if you want to get your manifolds to seal.

There is a very clear picture in any shop manual that covers the slant six that shows the torque pattern. I sincerely hope you aren't working on your car without SOME sort of shop manual. Even the Haynes and Chilton's manuals have the manifold torque pattern diagram. Honestly, if you really intend to work on your old slant six powered car, you NEED to get the factory service manual for it. Your questions suggest that you do not have much experience working on slants and old cars in general, so it really is in your best interest to educate yourself about what you are doing.

In the meantime, here is the diagram for you:

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Understand it 100% followed as instructed but.... Still leaks very Slowly but it does

Can you be more descriptive? Intake or exhaust leak? What is you vacuum at idle? Does it leak from the union between the manifolds or from where the manifolds meet the head? Did you have the manifold to head mating surface of the manifolds machined flat? Have you checked the exhaust manifold for warping? Is it an original Chrysler exhaust manifold or an aftermarket replacement? What brand gaskets are you using at the head to manifold junction and the manifold to manifold junction?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Intake. Haven't got it to crank so don't know the vacuum. it leaks from the mani to head surface. Not to my knwlage. No wraping. and yes its original. The gaskets are the thin tin/metal flimsy kind. another thing between the 4bbl and exhaust mani the is id say a 3/4 in gap.

Can you send us some pictures? Post to photobucket or similar and post links in your reply.

again for gasket Remflex gives you more leeway on mating surfaces. See post above for link to slant six set.

brian

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