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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:19 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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The pick-up for the later pan has no curve to it and is shorter... but it can be made to work in the early pan.
DD


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:38 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
I wish I had read this before dropping my motor back in today... I've got that 369 pan, with the rub marks underneath... is there a way to "bend" that area while the engine is still in there without removing the centerlink, or is it worthwhile to just yank the centerlink?

~THOR~

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 10:36 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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Ahem, you could try the following.

Use a floor jack on the front of the engine. Raise the engine, place a crow bar on the center link. Drop engine. Repeat as neccessary. And, I don't know where I would get such an idea...


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 7:32 am 
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
I am going to go out on a limb here and say you've done it before?

:twisted:

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
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President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 9:47 am 
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I have done the centerlink clearance "dent" with the engine in the car.
Turn the steering full lockto the left and the centerlink will move out of the way... I make the dent with a ball peen hammer. :shock:
The modification to get clearance to the front / driver's side corner of the pan's sump is best done when the engine is out of the car.
DD


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 12:13 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2006 4:09 am
Posts: 396
Location: Tolland, Ct. 06084
Car Model: 65 Dart, 225, 4 spd od, hyd clutch, BBD, 2 1/4 exh
I've looked thru the sites to find where the 369 pan needs to be dented in order to allow it to be used in an early A-Body.

Is there a picture showing the locations to tap in order to clear the center link and K frame?

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
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Location: Everett, WA
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On the f-body oil pan, trim the front left corner back 1/2" and weld a new piece on. Dent the oil pan were it passes over the center link. This denting only needs to be done on pre '66 models, unless you have installed the v8 center link.

You can't smack the front left corner far enough in without getting cracks in the metal.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 6:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Quote:
I've looked thru the sites to find where the 369 pan needs to be dented in order to allow it to be used in an early A-Body.

Is there a picture showing the locations to tap in order to clear the center link and K frame?
Dent the 369 oil pan Here:

Image

And Here:

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 9:42 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
Just to be sure, I'm swapping out my '67 K frame for the 73-76 K and link. I have the middle left pan in DD's picture below.

http://www.dutra.org/pictures/engine/parts/oilpans.jpg

With the '67 setup, the center link was parallel with the flat part of the pan and was about 1" clearance.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=9

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=8

Am I OK using this pan now with the newer K frame and link or do I need another pan?

thanks,

Brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 7:41 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:27 am
Posts: 548
Location: Waynesboro VA
Car Model:
Quote:
I have done the centerlink clearance "dent" with the engine in the car.
Turn the steering full lockto the left and the centerlink will move out of the way... I make the dent with a ball peen hammer. :shock:
The modification to get clearance to the front / driver's side corner of the pan's sump is best done when the engine is out of the car.
DD
Just be careful when bending any center link; some designs depend on the link to be perfectly straight to not have flex in the link. Any kink will allow the link to flex some, particularly in any situation where the steering effort gets hard. You need to set the car down and watch the link for excess flex while someone turns the wheel with the car setting still and makes sure it is not flexing too much at the kink. 'mericun links seem to be generally OK, but some 70's Jap links bent like wet noodles with any small kink in them.


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