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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 2:41 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2014 11:05 am
Posts: 27
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Car Model:
I have searched but haven't seen a clear answer regarding the crank snout seal in the timing cover for my 225. Looking at it from the inside I believe the seal should be installed with the metal spring that circles the rubber facing in toward the engine and the metal shoulder facing out the front. Is that correct?

Would you suggest some type of sealer around the outside edge before pressing it in?

Getting a little paranoid about every little detail and questioning my self.

Thanks for the help,

Metal Turkey


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 5:51 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:27 am
Posts: 548
Location: Waynesboro VA
Car Model:
Yes that is the right direction. I use a bit of #2 Permatex around them. Take your time and tap/press it in a bit at a time to keep it straight and round.


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 Post subject: sealant
PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 11:04 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
FYI, I didn't use any sealant last time and it didn't leak at all.

I went to my local hardware store and found a green PVC drain cover pipe end that fit perfectly into the seal and touched only the metal. I sanded the end perfectly flat and I used it to tap the seal into place, works perfectly. I keep in my tool drawer marked "special" tools.

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 Post subject: hmmm....
PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 11:06 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
Now that I'm thinking about it, I bet one of the rings in my ball joint installer might fit, I'll check and let you know.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 6:54 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2014 11:05 am
Posts: 27
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Car Model:
Thanks for the information, I know it looks fairly obvious but the closer I get to finishing this project the more cautious I have become.

Those are some awesome pictures lots of great detail shots. I have just a tad bit more room to work on the engine in my stock D100. However it may not go as fast as your Dart.

Heading to the Good Guys Car show here in Phoenix this morning.

Thanks,
Metal Turkey


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 Post subject: no problem...
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 10:25 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
The folks here are happy to help, and as to sweating the details, I've asked the same question and tend to forget small things and have to ask again.

b

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 Post subject: results...
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 11:51 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I didn't find a ring in my ball joint press kit that was the same size as the PVC thingy.

I find that pictures help, so here are some pics of my timing cover seal installer (cost $2).

Top view showing the brand, I got it at OSH: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=4

I sanded the bottom part flat, it was a bit uneven new: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=3

It fits perfectly between the seal and the outer body, rests perfectly flat onto the bottom surface of the seal casing:

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=2

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=1

As you can see there is no sign of damage whatsoever to the seal case after tapping it in (this is my old seal, I'm going to replace it the same way). http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=0

This tool has a nice top surface to put a small chunk of 2x4 across so you evenly distribute the force. I might use a little sealant this time as it may help it slide in even easier, can't hurt.

Brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 2:08 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 11:29 pm
Posts: 681
Location: Seattle, WA
Car Model: 75 Dart SE (2),75 Swinger, 74 Dart Sport,91 Ram RV
Like 270 said-
"Special tools" for re-bushing the front suspensions on our Darts: our local (McLendon's) hardware store has a really good plumbing dept. So all my "special tools" are made of strong plastic, brass pipe, copper, steel, pipe caps & plugs, etc. Front wheel bearing seal driver: a plastic pipe cap. Nothing like a good builders' supply for special tools. :)

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 4:10 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2014 11:05 am
Posts: 27
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Car Model:
Thanks for the pictures of your specialty tool, I think I will stop by Ace hardware and see if I can pick up the same plumbing drain cover. I need all the special tools I can find.

Plan to start the NP435 rebuild this week, that should be interesting as I have never done one before. Oh well, like they say "if you can't run with the big dogs stay on the porch".

Thanks,
Metal Turkey


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 Post subject: sanding the end...
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:29 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I just lay a piece of sandpaper on a really flat surface and orbit the piece on top of the sandpaper, one hand to hold the sandpaper still the other orbits the work piece around. I don't have a turntable sander...

brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 7:06 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2014 11:05 am
Posts: 27
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Car Model:
Thanks, those are the kind of instructions even I can't screw up.

Metal Turkey


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 6:24 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2014 11:05 am
Posts: 27
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Car Model:
Got my new green drain tool, used it and it worked great.

Thanks for the advice,
Metal Turkey


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