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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 8:07 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:40 am
Posts: 34
Location: Wimberley, TX
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I am working on a power disc brake conversion on a 1964 Dodge 330. I want to remove the rear drums and replace the wheel cylinders and inspect all the hard parts.... The problem is that someone tightened the hubs waaaayyy too tight at one time and they will not budge. I have a fancy (heavy duty) otc hub puller that is not working and I have applied heat and beat the crap out of them to no avail.... :x

The brakes are still functional in the rear so I know I can finish my plumbing and upgrades up front, however I do not EVER trust wheel cylinders that are obviously not new. I have read that some people recommend slightly loosening the nut and then drive the car around :shock: .... I can do that after the brake system is put back together, but I would rather not (I doubt it would work anyway).

All advise and recommendations are welcome at this point as it really sucks to have all the tools/etc and still not be able to do the job :evil:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:38 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:10 am
Posts: 15
Location: Saint Louis, MO, United States
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Assuming you have the correct puller, it should just work. Here's a couple of links that show how it's done:
[url]http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/techstuff.html
[/url]
[url]http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/rearbrakes.htm
[/url]

Sometimes you just have to be patient. Maybe get the screw nice and tight, then check it every 30 mins or so and re-tighten it until it pops. Maybe overnight. I've not had to use the loosen-the-nut-and-drive-around method, but I've heard it suggested by other people.

Don't forget to leave the nut at the end of the threaded axle to keep the puller from deforming the threads.

_________________
'64 Dodge 440
'65 Dart wagon
'14 Chrysler Town and Country


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1827
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Have you put tension on the hub with the puller, then applied heat to the center of the hub?

It may be that the nut was never tightened too much. Bear in mind that, that is a taper-lok type fit, and has had many years to fit themselves to each other.

As Brummett said, it may require patience (and perserverence) to get those old girls to break loose.

The drive-them-loose idea has merit, but I suggest you just crack the retention nut loose, and drive around slowly on potholed roads. This will help a great deal in getting things apart.

('Course, there is the option of finding a later model 8.75" rear to put under the car.)

Roger


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 1:21 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:40 am
Posts: 34
Location: Wimberley, TX
Car Model:
Just an update... The hubs finally submitted .... The driver side was ridiculously stuck, the passenger side not too bad... The only casualty was the castle nut on on the driver side... the puller pretty much completely destroyed it but I was able to use it again on the passenger side so as not to mess up both of them 8)

Thanks Brummet for the links they were very helpful :bow:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:26 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2014 3:13 pm
Posts: 82
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Glad to hear.
I personally would never have thought to tighten it up and then walk away for an evening.
I am still learning things don't always happen right away just cause I want them 2.


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