going to install a water pump on our1968 as the old one weeps,
it is a Fel -Pro /$2.00 from local Carquest should I use a sealant? the old stock on had some...

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

It might not be necessary, but it can't hurt as long as you don't go overboard. You don't want it gooshing out everywhere when you torque the thing down.

I think when I did it last, I used a light coat of RTV on the engine side of the gasket that actually touches the engine. I left the other side of that gasket and both sides of the pump-to-plate gasket dry. My thinking is that it was a new pump and those are all clean, freshly machined surfaces, so the gaskets shouldn't need any help sealing. I just used RTV on the side that hits the engine block, as it's a 50-year-old hunk of cast iron and isn't a perfect surface anymore.

Let the RTV get tacky before you install the pump.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Very very thin coat of whatever sealant I have, (RTV,etc.) just to fill any roughness. As water pumps are cheap, and can be a disaster when they blow a seal/bearing on a trip, why not just replace the pump now, and be good for 8 more years? Same amount of work. Unless your pump is nearly new.

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

I put the gray water pump sealant on by permatex. I was also told that permatex 2 works as well, but not permatex 1, if you ever want it to come apart again.

anyone used stainless steel Allen heads on this app?

as in to bolt up water pump.

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

I never had a problem using Permatex anti-seize on the steel bolt threads.

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

Aluminum pump+stainless bolts+ water= corrosion of the alloy housing. Use steel bolts.

Depends on the SS type. If it is Martensitic 410-type, then yes, the galvanic coupling is large and the corrosion potential high. If it is 302/304, 303, 305 type SS, it's probably better, but that said, it is way safer to avoid SS with aluminum unless you can keep them from actual contact.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I usually use a very thin layer on all sides of the gaskets. Never had a leak. I had the same question though, does anybody not use any sealant? I've seen this advertised with certain water pumps "no need for sealant" and that posed the question for me.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Are those "no sealant" gaskets pre-goo'd?

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

I have never had a problem with leaking or corrosion using the factory bolts and no extra anything on the water pump gasket.

That's what I was looking for.

To answer the previous question, I've never purchased a water pump where they say "no sealant needed" but from that I assumed that since they all provide pretty much the same (paper) gaskets, it should apply across the board.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I just use a thin smear of grease on both sides. Never had a problem.

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Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car

Hylomar

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

yup