Thanks for the tips. I got it out. I know how people love pics.

On the bench


Checking the travel of the inner shaft, it was exact 0.050 right in the middle of the range, so that is good.


Opened it up, is that some burn on the front band? Does front band look low on friction material can you tell?

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'87 D150 Slant-6 A904 with wooden cap

We need to see the other side of the band. You are looking at the outside or shell of the band. The friction clutch material is on the side that grips the drum.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks Reed. I will go look at it now.

I found a good tip: you don't need a slide hammer to get out the pump assembly. I used a 5/16" x 3' smooth metal rod and it fit well into the bolt holes and then bend to the side, gave enough grab to wiggle the thing off pretty well.

Here's the sign of the problem in the front clutch:



See the frictions with no friction material? The frictions are the rings with teeth on the inside. They should have mineral material on them.

Now i am going to look at the piston seals and see if they're ok, why did the clutch burn out like this? Was it because my throttle valve was mis-adjusted for a while and i was slipping at higher speeds? I guess that would do it maybe. But i will see if the piston seal was bad or something.


Here's my homemade spring compressor:



That is a machine lathe chuck on the bottom, antique, it finally came in handy.

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'87 D150 Slant-6 A904 with wooden cap

Nice homemade tool! I used a couple woodworking speed clamps. I like your tool better.

The clutch material wears away just with regular use, but a misadjusted kick down/throttle lever can greatly accelerate the wear.

Another alternative to the slide hammer to remove the pump is to use the all-thread like you did, pas it through the motel bar or angle iron, and then use nuts and washers on the all-thread to slowly pull the pump body out of the trans case.

So far so good! You are progressing well. Soon you will wonder why shops charge $900+ to rebuild one of these transmissions.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks for the compliment, Reed, and the encouragement.

Here i think is the culprit, a bad outer seal on the front clutch piston.



Now i think i will put it back together and readjust the bands and call it a day.

I think i don't have all the time to rebuild the whole thing and i need to get rolling back to work soon!

I don't wonder at all why shops charge a lot of money for this. It takes a lot of time and focus, and so many things could go wrong! Here around Boston i actually got prices of $2,000 and $1,800 to rebuild the transmission. I bet i could have found $1,500 but that's rock bottom around here.

We finally got some flowers and life around here.

I hope my truck Springs into action like these.


By the way the friction on the bands looks ok for now but maybe it's low, it's mostly about 1/16" a little less maybe.

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'87 D150 Slant-6 A904 with wooden cap

Let us know how it works out for you!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Sounds like you got the hang of it. I rebuilt one a few years ago and thought "It's bigger than a carburetor, but not more complicated".
learned a lot too. First thing was all the advice for fancy tools weren't necessary. Anybody with a little common sense can figure out ways around most of them. I like your home made tool alot.
Big block of wood says carpenter more than anything.
Feels good doesn't it? I hope to read about your test drive by tomorrow.
As for shops they have over head and still need to make a profit. They really don't like these older units either. Much more money in the modern stuff.
Love those crocus. I can't wait for mine to pop up.

WHY?

Because they can.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I'm about to put it back in, so i hope it works.

One strange thing, i realize that my lock-up probably never engages, because it is switch on by the computer in the lean-burn system via a solenoid with a single-conductor lead, and my lean-burn computer is disconnected from a past owner who changed the carb to an older non-electric one.

So..., i'm thinking of rigging up a toggle switch in the cockpit that would engage the lock-up, that i could turn on when i get to 40 MPH and get better mileage on highway travel.

Comments?

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'87 D150 Slant-6 A904 with wooden cap

That might work for the lockup. However, lockup only gains about 5-6% efficiency.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

5-6% is worth is to me! Always want to improve my mileage.

I'll have to be aware of shutting it off whenever i slow down.

Well, i got the transmission mostly re-installed today, i'll finish it tomorrow. Some really rusty bolts on the cross-member support beam slowed me down.

Here's how i got it up, one block at a time... slowly and carefully.

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'87 D150 Slant-6 A904 with wooden cap

Nice! I used to balance the the trans on the head of a floor jack and install it that way. Then I got smart and bought a real transmission jack at Harbor Freight. It was $60 on sale. I like your wood block method though.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Here is my working truck.

It goes into reverse like butter .. no clunk, nothing... smooth.

Feel so good to be back rolling with my good truck.
Now i can go make some money again cause i'm broke.



You can see that blood was spilled... transmission fluid on the driveway.
When i got it back together. one of the lines had a tiny leak and sprayed a couple quarts until i realized it. I got that fixed and it feels good now.

Thanks Reed and everyone else for help and encouragement.
Don't think i could have done it without y'all.

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'87 D150 Slant-6 A904 with wooden cap

Hooray! Congratulations on a new skill learned and money saved. Now get out there and make that truck earn its keep!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Still one issue --> speedometer not working now.

I pulled out the speedo insert, and the gear looks fine... is there a trick to this, or what to diagnose? Is it likely that the gear is not engaging, or is it likely that the cable is broke? Hmm. Maybe i'll put it on a power drill and see if it register speed on the dash.

Should the speedo gear have a sort of "pop" onto the speedo cable assembly, or should it pull out from that totally loose, like nothing is really holding it in?

It seems like it can just float out from the assembly, so maybe my assembly is broken or something.

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'87 D150 Slant-6 A904 with wooden cap