I've seen people make blocks to run the coolant circulation heat into the block under the intake for carb heat, there is even at least one you can buy: http://autoparts.rasoenterprises.com/in ... -slant-six

But what about an electric, resistive type heater that doesn't rely on coolant system?

If one goes to say hyperpack or headers, wouldn't it be nice to have a heater block that one could simply hit a switch and warm up the intake at the heater block? Once the engine is warmed up you could turn it off, especially if, like me, you have a heat shield that reflects the exhaust manifold heat to the intake runners.

This seems like a simple solution, surely somebody has done this, right?

Mount an aluminum plate to the heat box area, in the box is an oil heater or some modified resistive 12V heater, maybe fill the box with a very high boiling liquid for good heat transfer (a high melting point polymer would work nicely). You could leave it on, or turn it off after the engine comes to temperature (a thermostat would make it automatic, like an electric choke).

Has this already been done? Are there off the shelf solutions?

brian

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Seems like one of these would work:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Heater-O ... 96&vxp=mtr

Just need a 4 x 4 metal plate to bolt to the heat box. No need for the polymer or high boiling liquid, metal has a great heat transfer, maybe fill the heat box with aluminum, or grind it off to make a flat surface for this heating pad.

brian

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To have enough heat, fast enough, would require a great deal of current. That current would have to come from the alternator, which would mean a drag on engine power, which would mean less acceleration and less fuel economy. Exhaust or water is the right way to do it, because then it's the other way around: you're using some of what would otherwise be wasted energy (heat), thus no drag on the engine.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Dan,

So, with the exhaust heat method the heat comes pretty fast, from the combustion. But with the water heat method doesn't it come more slowly? Does just a little heat work, i.e. the heat capacity of the water counteract the evaporative cooling from the gas vaporizing in the intake? What about on a really cold day?

My electric choke heaters draw whatever current they draw, but they get pretty darn hot pretty fast. Wouldn't this be enough for an intake heater block? Has to be more heat than the water can do in the short term (until the engine heats up).

brian

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While the engine is running, gasoline causes a continuous evaporative cooling effect on the intake manifold. Some of the fuel atomized by the carburetor will not make the 90° turn downward from the carburetor to the intake manifold runners and will puddle on the intake manifold floor.

Even on the coldest winter morning, the coolant will be warmer than the puddled gasoline. Since relatively warm coolant continuously circulates around the intake manifold hot spot with an intake manifold heater plate, any puddled gasoline will evaporate back into the airstream. Although an exhaust-heated hot spot should initially provide more heat, a water-heated hot spot should still be able to vaporize ALL puddled fuel.

Intake Manifold Heat

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Rods & Relics - Fort Erie, ON / Collector Car Tech

OK, so I don't have to make a prototype, and more importantly, no need to re-invent the wheel.

Though I might make my own custom heater block (happy to share plans) when/if the hyperpack group order happens.

brian

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Yes, and that's a disadvantage, but if there are countervailing factors (such as the presence of a thermostatic air cleaner) it's fast enough.
They also have almost zero metal to heat up. The thermal mass of an intake manifold by itself is enormous even without the refrigeration effect of fuel/air mixture moving through.
Not even close.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,

Yes, I didn't take into account thermal mass of the heating block (and the intake to which it is attached). Since I live in California, SF bay area, we don't get many days below 40 degrees, most times its above 60 degrees, so water should do the job and won't take too long to heat up either.

Brian

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Edit: just looked at your pics. OK, twin carbs. But why is this even a question? Looks like you've properly hooked up the manifolds so you have exhaust heat to the intake manifold.

Pending the answer to that question, I'd say your effort/time/money would be much better spent putting in a much better air cleaner system. Those K&N things keep spiders and pebbles out, but that's all they do -- damaging dirt sails right through them; they are not effective air filters. And they admit cold air when the engine's cold and hot air when it's hot, which is the opposite of what's wanted. It would be worth your while, in terms of driveability and fuel economy, to put in a thermostatic air cleaner (this will require some fabrication in your case!).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Having owned a couple of Cummins equipped Dodge pickups I can say, as Dan has, that heating the intake manifold electrically is not a trivial undertaking. A 120 amp alternator does not keep up when the intake heater cycles on.

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Joshua

You live in a mild climate and run the Offy intake right?? Firstly,IF you really want to heat the intake why not just use the exhaust heat passages that are cast into the manifold? If your running a non standard exhaust you could easily make an adaptor plate with fittings to fit where the exhaust hot box bolted on and run coolant through the cast in exhaust heat passages. That being said,if you run headers ( which most people do over here ,and we have a similar climate to you) the radiated heat will quickly heat up your intake,unless your doing some kind of continual stop start driving where the engine never warms up I wouldn't give it a second thought...the amount I inline six cars I've seen over here with stock cast iron intakes and tube headers confirms that they run just fine in a warm climate,they don't seem to have any issues or accelerated wear due to poor fuel atomisation...cold climate different story. As far as filter systems go,well,those filters aren't exactly a pretty design as far as airflow transition into the carb goes,but you would be limited with hood clearance on the front carb,at the end of the day they are a very popular choice for most Weber carbs and seem to work for most...I personally don't stress about K+N filter media,it is used in some sectors of the the aviation industry,I have seen them run in light aircraft with great results,and,no,not in nice clean air,we are talking cattle mustering aircraft amongst others,extremely dusty conditions, and the engines gave good service,the beauty of a serviceable filter was also a draw card since the paper elements just didn't last well in these extreme conditions.Change them if you feel the need,but for me I'd be happy enough.