6 pistons with modified domes

Static compression will come in right about 7.9:1

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And...
Modified the connecting rods by cutting a "Cosworth Notch" in each side of each rod.

The notches direct a portion of the oil that flows through the rod bearing to the bottom of the piston for improved piston cooling. They are offset so the spray will miss the wrist pin and hit the underside of the piston dome.

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Looks Like Good Progress!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Well, some progress. I haven't been very organized with the whole project. Almost every step I want to do I realize I have to order a part or a tool. For example, today I was going to check deck height with the pistons but realized I have rod bearings but no crank bearings... Then I figured I would look at cam/oil pump gear engagement. Hmm... no oil pump gasket. Etc, Etc. So I ordered stuff on the net 4 times today. Luckily there are many little things to be done so I can usually find something to tinker with that moves it forward.

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Like cutting a oil groove in the rear cam journal.

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LOL dident these motors come with 7:1 compression stock?

_________________
~Nic

I think the factory spec was 8.5:1
I measured this one when I was taking it apart and got 8.1:1
I understand they were all over the map but probably rarely as high as the actual factory spec.

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hmmmm maybe the truck motor were different. Mine was at 7:1 before I had it rebuilt. They shaved the head .030 and that brought it up to 8.5:1

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~Nic

Milling a head .030" will only increase compression by about 0.3 of a point.

All other things being equal, if it originally was 7:1 they would have had to mill the head and block a total of 0.140" to get it up to 8.5:1

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One thing I love about a project is how it justifies adding a new tool to the collection.

Isky Groove-o-matic block oring groove cutter.

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I made a magnetic plug to be a first line of defense for iron or steel particles being drawn up into the oil pump.
It's in the passage above the pickup tube.
Should be easy to remove, clean and replace.

There is a cavity open to air on the side not shown in the photos.
I filled it with epoxy before drilling and tapping.

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Good idea. I use these.
http://www.classicindustries.com/produc ... ra300.html
They work wonders.

_________________
~Nic

Yes, I'll also install a magnetic drain plug and one of these oil filter magnets
--> http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#a0712-0290
Because I always have a whole box of them.

In the pump I just wanted a chance to catch the break-in debris before it ran through the oil pump.

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I decided to drill a hole from the upper oil pump chamber through the block to squirt oil on the distributor gear.
This in turn will transport the oil to the cam gear and lube the oil pump gear.

First I drilled in about 1/8" with a 1/8" bit. Then the rest of the way through very carefully with a .035" bit.

In retrospect it would definitely be easier to drill a bigger hole and press in a roll pin.
Less chance of breaking a tiny drill bit off on the hole. I guess I just like to live dangerously.

The result with a light behind it to show the hole.
Photo makes it look off center but that must be some weird reflection.

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Make sure you get some stainless o-ring wire. The copper wire provided is absolutely useless for o-ringing a block with.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!