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 Post subject: 4340 Billet Crank
PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 8:46 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Jan 30, 2015 6:41 pm
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Car Model: 1965 Dodge Dart
Hello fellow Sixer fanatics!

I'm building a 30+ psi 225 with a compound turbo setup. Should I look into a billet crank? I know there's some in existence.. But where? Anyone know who would get rid of such an anomaly? Should I look into getting one made?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 2:00 pm 
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I know where a couple are, but I don't think either one is currently for sale. :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 4:06 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
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I know a Slant racer that got a Crower billet one recently. They're about $4K. You have to think you'd break about 40 stock cranks to justify it though unless you just have money burning a hole in your pocket.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 4:35 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2014 9:14 pm
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Location: Alberta, Canada
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Quote:
I know a Slant racer that got a Crower billet one recently. They're about $4K. You have to think you'd break about 40 stock cranks to justify it though unless you just have money burning a hole in your pocket.
probably worth blowing up a couple to see how much they would handle


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 4:56 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Car Model: 1965 Dodge Dart
Okay cool all I needed to hear

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 2:32 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Jan 30, 2015 6:41 pm
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Car Model: 1965 Dodge Dart
You guys think a '70 forged crank would handle 35 pounds of boost?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:33 am 
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It's not only about the crank. You need to worry about the main bearing caps, and webs. I think you will need to do some upgrading in that area.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 5:13 am 
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I would say it's more about RPMs than boost. I don't see why not. Keep it under 6000 and it'll live. Charlie is right that the block/main caps should be treated well.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 8:02 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Jan 30, 2015 6:41 pm
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Car Model: 1965 Dodge Dart
Well I was looking into the mains first which is what brought me to the crank. I asked my machinist if I should run some 4130 mains since there's only 4, and he said the 1045 would be strong enough since the crank would probably go before the mains

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 11:50 am 
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The only guys I have ever seen have any crank issues were grinding them down to Chevy rod journal size.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 1:07 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Jan 30, 2015 6:41 pm
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Car Model: 1965 Dodge Dart
Alright. We'll see what happens.

Main material..? 1044 isn't strong enough for 35 pounds of boost in my opinion. 4130.. 4340? Let me hear some ideas.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 6:47 pm 
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Quote:
The only guys I have ever seen have any crank issues were grinding them down to Chevy rod journal size.
I have a crank that may resemble that..... As some one that has destroyed a slant in every way possible I think that the crank and mains are not to worry about.
Will


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 7:47 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
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Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Quote:
Alright. We'll see what happens.

Main material..? 1044 isn't strong enough for 35 pounds of boost in my opinion. 4130.. 4340? Let me hear some ideas.
You can always do a main girdle to stiffen the block. But you aren't going to break a crank because of the main caps, you will break it because it only has 4 mains and most all other inline 6 cylinder engine blocks have 7. It just doesn't have enough journal support and a lot of journal overlap that makes the design weak. Even with a billet crank with only 4 mains, it will break before the same engine that has 7 mains. Just because its billet doesn't mean it still can't break.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 10:45 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Jan 30, 2015 6:41 pm
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Car Model: 1965 Dodge Dart
That's right and I totally agree. However, since it's such a weak design, I'm trying to build it up as strong as possible to withstand a beating. I know it will still have limits, but I want to overcome as much as I can. I need to make sure the lower end of the rotating assembly will survive. I've already got 2,500 dumped into a block and parts and don't even have my mains ordered. Anyone know of someone that's built a main girdle for a slant? It can't be easy since the mains pertrude below the block's surface.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 1:29 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Here is Howard Davis' amazing engine main girdle. After you build that then you need to build a custom pan ....etc to go with it.

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... llside+six
Quote:
since it's such a weak design,
I am not at all sure I agree that it is a inherently weak design. Maybe in the extreme applications like you are talking about it needs some consideration. But there are a lot of people that have gone pretty fast with a plain Jane forged (or cast) crank. If it was a really weak design the cast cranks would be laying in great heaps outside of garages all over America.:lol: :lol:

Keep the RPM's reasonable and the crank should be fine.

Rick

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