Hello all. I've been lurking here for awhile. I bought a "Lowe's" truck that I would like to become a decent work commuter. I pretty much chose this truck because of the Slant. Fascinating engineering. I'm a novice, but I do most of my own work. It's a hobby. With that stated, I haven't owned a carbureted engine since 1994.

I took some picks. This wiring is some hillbilly engineering from what I can tell. Looks like it may have had the HEI at one point. There's a couple of vacuum lines leading to nowhere. One is off the charcoal can. SEVERAL 2,3,4,5 prong electrical wiring connectors in limbo. I'll get a service manual, but I have a feeling, there have been some heavy mods/de-evolution under the hood.


Sponge on the PVC hose? Is this normal? Doesn't seem to be a connection on the carb or intake.


Is this the stock carb?




This looks important...




An example of the disconnected wiring


Smog pump? Should I reconnect this? I read a long (informative) article here that broke down the different EPA changes, and I recall that this one helped.







I'm currently tossing around nickname ideas. Muffin Top and Blonde Bomb are in the lead.

What "I've" done so far: new plugs gaped to .035, new fuel filter, air filter, oil change is coming. But I'm not sure it's needed, either that sponge draped behind the engine has been dropping alot of oil, or the rear main seal is going. Anyway, thanks for taking a look and I appreciate any information.

It looks like somebody tried to remove the lean burn system, but didn't finish the process.

Reed is going to be able to help you more with this one, and I'm sure he'll pop up.

To put the lean burn back into working order may be a tall order depending on what is left, and what still works from that subset. If the truck doesn't need to pass emissions testing, then you may find it easier to complete the conversion to earlier components. Does the distributor have vacuum advance capability or is it fixed?

A search of slantsix.org will outline many of the parts needed to convert to the 74-77 or so distributor, HEI ignition, and an earlier carburetor that won't need the computer. I didn't see a photo of the computer, so can only assume it isn't present.

Welcome to slant six dot org!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

LOL I would name her golden child.

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~Nic

That air intake hose terminated with foam looks to be a remnant of PCV system which probably attached to factory air cleaner. Factory air cleaner would have had provision for ducting cool air from out side engine compartment, and a vacuum actuated flapper in its snorkel to provide warmed air during cold starts.

Yup there has been some fine Budweiser Engineering performed on your Li'll Buttercup, some of which was amputation of her Lean Burn bits.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

That poor poor truck. Can you tel us the year of that truck? It is definitely a truck that could have been built with a lean burn system. I am guessing mid 80s.

I am working right now so I will have to go into more detail later, but at first glance it appears that some has done some major hacking in the engine compartment.

From the pictures, it appears that the carb is a Holley 1945, which could be original The carb has had the factory automatic choke disabled (but all parts appear to be present, just mangled out of the way) and a manual choke installed.

The PCV hose should connect to the largest port on the base of the carb. it looks like the EGR system has been tampered with. That crankcase breather with the "sponge" o the end used to connect to the factory air cleaner. your air cleaner is not factory equipment. The SMOG pump appears to actually still be hooked up, but the drive belt has been removed. If the pump still turns freely, then yes, you should hook it back up. However, chances are that the lack of air injection into the front catalytic converter has lead to that converter failing internally and becoming clogged. You probably also have a second converter that has failed and clogged.

My preliminary diagnosis is that some poor soul who didn't really know what he or she was doing tried to remove the lean burn system and did a poor job of it. The good news is that your carb might be able to be used without a lean burn computer. However, it may not have the correct port for a non-lean burn distributor. Can you post a picture of your distributor?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I appreciate the replies and the information. I work 12's and now it seems work isn't allowing me on the site. Sorry for the delay.

It's a 1985 D100 Custom, base model I believe. $1200, and it's pretty fun so far. I told myself I wasn't going to spend money on this, but, minus the 3rd world engineering, it's pretty solid compared to $3000 trucks in the Cincinnati area.

I never thought about replacing the cats. I'd probably go with an entire exhaust system, is the Clifford split manifold worth the price? And what about the Clifford intake? Not sure if Durta would be a cheaper or better route, you have to email for details, and I have limited time and knowledge. I like the 225. It's different. My fierce integrity and lingering teen angst may force me to keep this around to be different lol.

Here is the distributor. The best I can do with the engine still hot.






I'll reread your posts and actually retain the information. Thanks again!

Aaah, it sounds like the bug bit you for sure...welcome to slant six world...

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I don't see a vacuum can on right side of distributor, making it a Lean Burn computer controlled advance. That distributor has no provision for fuel saving vacuum advance.

Plan on getting an electronic distributor c. 1973-80 or so truck, in other words from a non lean burn, non points/condenser equipped truck as first choice. Like equipped car is another source, but will likely need some recurving to play well with truck's rolling brick profile.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

WJAJR nailed it. That is definitely a lean-burn distributor. This means that if your carb is the original carb to the truck it may not have the correct vacuum port to work with a standard distributor that uses vacuum advance.

My recommendation is do the HEI ignition swap and carefully verify that the carb has the correct vacuum port for the distributor vacuum advance. You may also need to install a different carb.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Or Golden Shower

Seriously, the hack job on my D100 was just about like what you see under your hood. Mine was a hillbilly Lean Burn delete that was done half fast, and the truck ran OK for the first few hundred miles but the catalytic converter melted down on the interstate after work one night. I mean it was glowing so hot I could read by the light it gave off!

The smog pump draws very little horsepower, but does nothing to aid performance either. Since mine was seized I just tossed it. But that left a gaping hole in the back of the cylinder head, so if you go this route, be forewarned! I plugged it with a copper plumbing cap.

That distributor, if it's a Lean Burn, is all jacked up for the application. I swapped mine for one from a 73 Scamp and it was a night and day difference. That carb isn't necessarily bad, but it isn't good either. a Holley 1920 is what I swapped to for a few years.

as for your wiring.... have fun with that!
Best bang for the buck I've ever done.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

I really appreciate all this information. I will look into the HEI resurrection. You guys are great.

I've been doing alot of reading about the HEI conversion. Let me run this by you, if you would give me your expert opinions, I would appreciate the input.

I'll need:
HEI control module
Heat sink/Mount (anyone tried using a computer processor sink?)
Proper pigtail
Distributor with Vacuum Advance
E-coil (of my choosing? Ford or GM)
*New/different carburetor with the proper Vacuum Advance port

*If I'm getting a carb, I might as well get a 2bbl, if I'm getting a 2bbl, I need a new intake, if I'm getting a new intake, I should get headers, if I'm getting the headers then I need an entire new exhaust installed (already needed).

To do this conversion right, I'm looking at an estimated $1500-$2000 +plus any labor I can't do on my own, like welding the exhaust. I'm bi-polar II, so let me know if hypomania is over powering my meds on this idea lol. Seriously...

Oh, my "Rear Main Seal" leak turned out to be the oil filter... it was so loose when I went to take it off for an oil change, I'm surprised it was even present. It wasn't snug at all. So, lucky break there Hopefully my smoke screen will go away today.

I'm with you up to the intake and exhaust. It isn't 100% necessary to switch to a two barrel carb. It would be much easier and cheaper to do the ignition first and get that sited and then change carbs. I also don't think headers are worth it for the street. The stock exhaust manifold and a single 2 1/4 inch pipe is fine.

I recommend you do the ignition upgrade and see how it runs. Then, if your carb has the right fitting to correctly operate the vacuum advance on the distributor, keep it and just upgrade the exhaust line. If it doesn't, switch to another one barrel carb that does have the proper fitting, and then upgrade the exhaust line. If you absolutely must go to a two barrel carb, do it, but skip the headers. If you want a custom exhaust you are better off installing a Dutra manifold and the rear half of a factory manifold.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If you have the 1945 carb, then you have the right one already (non computer controlled).

As Reed said, do the ignition swap first. I did mine this past weekend and I spent about $130 and an afternoon, ad that was the first time I did any real electrical changes to a vehicle. The changes were immediate and very apparent!

Not necessarily. Chrysler used some 1945 carbs that had no ported vacuum nipple for use with a distributor. The carbs were 1945 carbs but they had a full time vacuum source for use with a lean burn system that only controlled the ignition.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.