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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 7:08 am 
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Supercharged
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you may want to smooth the transition from the pump pocket to the gallery feeds.

I had done this here..
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... c&start=15
You have to scroll down a bit to see the pics.


Greg

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 7:36 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
Quote:
Make sure you get some stainless o-ring wire. The copper wire provided is absolutely useless for o-ringing a block with.
Yeah, I plan to do that. I've heard both ways not to use the copper or that the copper is fine.

Seems to me it would make a big difference what kind of head gasket was being used in combination with the orings.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:38 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1325
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
You can only use a copper head gasket when o-ringing a block, that is the only type that is compatible and designed to be used with o-rings, so there really isn't any other option as far as head gaskets go. Good plan on swapping out the wire.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:25 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:25 am
Posts: 797
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
Quote:
You can only use a copper head gasket when o-ringing a block, that is the only type that is compatible and designed to be used with o-rings, so there really isn't any other option as far as head gaskets go. Good plan on swapping out the wire.
In the diesel forums where I also hang out o-ringed blocks are routinely used with composite gaskets. The wisdom there is to locate the o-ring right at the outer edge of the metal fire ring. Those guys are of course running CRs from 17:1 to 21:1. with boost in the 15-30 range or more.

I think with a composite gasket the copper wire is fine. It can still bite into the gasket. I still plan to use stainless wire but I am going to use it with a composite gasket.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 4:47 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
It's finally coming together enough that I can install a cam stop.
I read about cutting an old main pulley to use as a temporary piece to help locate the timing cover.
Well, I don't have a spare pulley but I did figure out a quick and dirty way to get the cover located correctly around the crank.
Starting with a short piece of 4x4 in the lathe I turned a 1" thick donut that fits snugly on the crank and in the seal pocket.
Image

And of course, turned a bolt into a center punch.
Image

It worked real nice. The seal pocket is centered around the nose of the crank and is held firmly in place.

Image

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Last edited by ProCycle on Wed May 13, 2020 1:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 4:52 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
After making the punch mark I made a nice clean 1/2" hole in the cover.
I machined a shoulder onto a nut so it presses into the cover.
Image

Nut pressed in. I will tig weld around the inside joint.
Image

Mig welded on the outside. Ready for paint.
Image

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Last edited by ProCycle on Wed May 13, 2020 1:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 6:56 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Posts: 797
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
I also cut some grooves in the 'uphill' side of the lifter bores to direct extra oil to the cam lobes.
Believe it or not, I did this very carefully with a Sawzall.
Image

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Last edited by ProCycle on Wed May 13, 2020 1:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:36 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
Checked the ring gaps today. Only had to make very slight adjustments to two of the second rings.
Image

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Last edited by ProCycle on Wed May 13, 2020 1:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:30 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Posts: 797
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
Heat reflective tape applied to the intake plenum...
Image

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Last edited by ProCycle on Wed May 13, 2020 1:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 11:15 am 
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Love the sawzall grooves.

Tilley in Australia has been using O-rings with the Permaseal/Endurotec head gaskets on his 12:1 350+HP NA 225 for many years. If he is using them, that says enough to me.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 11:35 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
I have a permaseal head gasket. But... the gasket bores are 0.210" bigger diameter than my cylinder bores. I don't really want that 0.105" deep slot all around the chamber. I'm afraid it will be likely to seed detonation. Also, if I put the orings at the edge of the fire rings the grooves will almost run together.

Any recommendations on a different high quality head gasket?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:31 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1325
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Your best choice has already been recommended.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 9:16 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:25 am
Posts: 797
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
Huh? Who recommended what? From where?

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 Post subject: Yep...
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
Your best choice has already been recommended.
Yes, the permaseal is the top dog if you are going with a head gasket...next lower on the food chain is the victor reinz (good for 12:1 NA engines and no malfunctions), and the for anything that is a stock build or slightly above the fel-pro is fine (about 10:1 would be the limit, I lost one on an 11:1 engine which worked fine after the switch to victor)... if you need more than the permaseal it's O-ring time....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 9:47 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
I also cut some grooves in the 'uphill' side of the lifter bores to direct extra oil to the cam lobes.
Believe it or not, I did this very carefully with a Sawzall.
Image


Are you using oil standoffs?


If not, I have an idea..........

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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