I went ahead and bought one of the HF air line filters to see what could be done with the push button drain. It looks like when there's air in the line it pushes the drain plug down to create the seal and when there is no air in the line the spring loaded plug comes up and allows the bowl to drain...

Here's what i did for now! I used a clevis pin clip, and had to use a wheel grinder to grind one side down enough so it could be pressed in to fill the gap and hold the push button drain down like it would if high pressure air where in the line.




You have to get a nice tight fit! If there's a little play in the plug gap it will weep a little bit...I tried a different clip before the one pictured and it had a little play in the plug gap and weeped a little. The clevis pin clip was a little bigger than the gap size so as i grinded it. I would test fit to make sure i didn't grind too much. I left water in it for hours and not a spec of water residue came out of it There are threads inside the drain plug, so it looks like you could buy a brass threaded plug at home depot (and next time i'm there, i will go ahead and get one to see if it fits) the hole size measures 5/16.

I tried to see if i could remove the whole plug assembly and screw in a drain cock...but after loosing the nut at the bottom of the plastic container i wasn't able to seperate the two pieces, so i'm not sure if that's possible. With this air line filter the plastic container does not thread into the assembly it has a rubber o-ring and the metal container around it helps lock it in. So hopefully, it will have a good seal since i don't think using it as a air/oil separator with a automobile is going to create that much air pressure like a compressor would.

$9.99 for the air line filter, $1.89 for the 2 3/8 barbed plugs, i already had the clevis pin clip. I'll have to get some 3/8 rubber hose and decide how to mount it to the truck. I'll give it a go and see how it works out!

I wonder how often i will have to drain it? I drive my truck about 400 miles a month.

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1984' Dodge D150 Utiline Bed
Slant 6 225, Holley 1920 Carb
A833 4 Speed O/D Transmission

An important additional function of a very coarse filter material, is that it provides a large area for condensation of the vapors. I hope I can have my Aspen back on the road again before the winter has passed, so I can test it. Short drives in winter give plenty condensate and sludge to be removed.

Olaf

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Aspenized

Olaf,
Good point on the filter media.......!

It is that time of year I pull out the summer thermostat, (160 degrees stat for the 100 degree days) and install my trusty 205 degree Robert Shaw high flow stat for the 20 to 30 degree days. Snow level is down to 2500 feet and it makes a huge difference in mileage (2 mpg) not having enough heat when running a cast iron intake. I miss the aluminum intake as it wasn't as temper mental in the winter months. But I am running a stock 1979 SL6 right now.

The hotter stat helps warm it up quicker in the cold mornings and helps to burn off any condensation. No milky oil residue!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

kxracer728,

Let us know if your mod truly seals well enough to not affect the idle vacuum in any way.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

It will be a couple of days before i have it on...i will post back the results after a little drive time. It will probably be a couple of weeks before i try out the 1920 economaster!

I'll let you know how that goes Agressive Ted

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1984' Dodge D150 Utiline Bed
Slant 6 225, Holley 1920 Carb
A833 4 Speed O/D Transmission

A coil of copper tubing inside a PVC plastic tube would work. It needs to cool the vapors so that the heavy and wet gases condense. Making the catch can big would be easy, making a compact system that functions well is some effort. We have more under hood space than the typical late model application.

I made a catch can out of an aluminum inline gas filter can, I don't use the filter element. The can is about 3" in diameter and 5" long, I put it on the firewall. The large metal surface area condenses the hot vapors pretty well, I drain it every oil change. I drilled and tapped the base to install a 1/8 npt stopcock to drain it.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... p.jpg.html

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... c.jpg.html

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I just started reading this oil catch can post, very interesting. Now I suspect the coking on back side of my intake valves, and quart of oil consumption per 1500 to 2000 miles is probably a result of PCV circuit sucking oil and dumping it into intake.

I have low vacuum at idle, stock metal PCV valve which may need to be changed to one that plays better with lumpy cam, as well as an oil separator installed. Any insight on optional PCV valve?

Also engine runs rich at low speeds (below 2800 rpm), and when off throttle, reaches and holds ideal mixture above 3000 at cruse, and goes rich under WOT once power valve opens. (Holley 390) At idle mixture roles rich to lean, rich to lean as rpm roles up & down 50 rpm or so

Based on what I have read in previous entries above stock PVC valve may not be compatible with low vacuum at idle, and low speed cruse by not passing enough air.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

That Horrible Freight separator looks like the one I'm using.
https://youtu.be/azy9H8JUboI

Interesting stuff, folks. I may try one/two of these on my hipo NA and turbo 225s...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988