I am hooking up an electric choke and also preparing to do the HEI conversion.

The only parts I don't have are the fuses and relays to do the job.

Well technically I might have the parts but need to know the specs of the fuses and relays.

I have a bucket of fuses, relays and other low voltage actuators from my old Haunted House days.

So I need the following:

Electric Choke
Fuse amp rating:
Relay Type:
Relay Amp rating:

HEI Conversion
Fuse amp rating:
Relay Type:
Relay Amp rating:

Thanks in advance

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1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

Someone correct me if im wrong but the electric choke gos to a switched ignition source with no fuse or relay. At least that is how I have mine hooked up on my Edelbrock.

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~Nic

Nicademas is correct- the factory (+) feed to the choke is spliced into one of the field wires from the alternator. No relay, no fuse. I suppose a 10 amp fuse would be fine if you wanted to add one.

Same goes for the HEI. I have never wired an HEI conversion with a relay. I usually find a switched (+) lead and tap into that for full battery flow. I believe the HEI upgrade discussion gives amp ratings for fuses and details of what relays to use. SlantSixDan sells top quality relays.

I have a one wire setup on my Alternator so I hooked the (+) from the choke to a switched wire on the back of the fuse block before the fuse. I guess I could also put it after the fuse but o well....

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~Nic

Using a relay is considerably smarter than using none. Not only does it reduce the current going back and forth through the firewall, not only does it reduce the workload on the perpetually-overstressed ignition switch, but it also makes the powered devices work better.

Use an ordinary normally-open fuse^h^h^h^h RELAY of a reputable brand (Bosch-Tyco, Flosser, PB). This kind of relay has terminals labelled 30, 85, 86, and 87. If you use a 20A-rated relay, you'll have much more than ample overspec for the relay to live a long and trouble-free life. Put your fuse as close as you can to the point where you pick up the power to run to the input (30) terminal of the fuse. A 15A fuse will be fine for the HEI, and another of the same for the electric choke.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Listen to the bearded one, he knows much more about this than I do.

Ha! Dan made a funny. A normally open fuse!

I converted from electric choke powered by ignition circuit (blue wire 12v side of ballast resistor) to relay triggered by said blue wire.


This change increased voltage coil saw at + primary terminal because with choke (large current draw device) feed directly from blue wire formed a parallel to ground was reducing coil voltage. I discovered this while in a quest to improve idle. As engine was idling, disconnecting electric choke produced a cleaner more stable idle. Choke heater is always on when ignition key is in run position, and also effects coil voltage when driving down the road.

A few calculations involving Ohm's Law pointed to low voltage at primary + side of coil to be a problem, and by eliminating electric choke load substituted by tinny load of relay trigger circuit the voltage & idle problems went away resulting in better overall run ability.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

»spit-TAKE« Hah! That's what I get for trying to multitask.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I think Harbor Freight has a coupon for those ...

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Remember the harbor freight fuses, that wouldn't blow, even if connected across the battery? The wires would melt, but not the fuse.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225