OK - First thing. I actually started my truck last night. After 12 years in storage, a year of rebuilding and three carbs it started.

Then I blipped the throttle and blew my choke stove pocket cup right off the manifold. LOL
Scared the crap out of me. I have heard open exhausts before but not at the block.

Anyway, since my repair did not hold I have a few options.

1) I have another manifold that I could take to a machine shop and have a proper block off plate made

2) I could install the headers I have hanging on the wall

3) I could swap in the aluminum intake with matching exhaust manifold that I found in the parts yard last summer . https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hpyvi ... 91-h788-no


I am running an electric choke so I do not need the pocket. Either way the existing manifolds have to come off and I really only want to have to do this one more time. This year.

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1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

Number 3 sounds like a good alternative. Make sure everything is right before you swap it on. Check for cracks etc.

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1979 W150 Shortbox
225, NP435, 9 1/4, Dana 44

The Good Life.

The removable choke thermostat pocket is a one or maybe two year only option. It is surprising you found two of them.

I also endorse option 3. Just be sure the head to manifold mating surface is flat.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The open-stove exhaust manifold with the separate stainless steel choke cup was a '70, '71, and '72 item. Can't get the cup-to-manifold gasket any more.

The "Number 3" option, the aluminum intake, will set you up with a 2bbl carb. Nice upgrade. The choke thermostat that's on it is not adjustable and will require a factory-type choke controller. Not recommended; instead use Electric choke kit number 1234 (the 1bbl electric choke setup will not work).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am going to go with the aluminum intake setup.

I have found a local shop that does glass bead blasting for the intake. Of course they can also handle the exhaust manifold.

Should I remove the exhaust flap and counterweight before taking to the blaster?

Since I have never had parts with inside blasted (only rims) do they blast the inside of the intake and exhaust?

Hope to have them separated today. Been going very slowly because I seem to have a habit of stripping/breaking bolts.

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1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

Only if you're planning on spending the time and money to track down a scarce new old stock heat control valve repair kit and have it installed afterward. In other words: No.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan. Will leave it as is.

I have a tendency to break stuck fasteners. Just don't seem to have the touch to know when to stop.

The bolts on this manifold set are very rusted. I have wire brushed the exposed threads and been spraying with PB Blaster for the last couple of days. Nothing is moving. I do not want to break the bolt int he exhaust manifold if I can avoid it.

I am going to use some heat, but don't know if I should apply it to the manifold or the bolt?

Or should I just snap the bolts and drill out the broken parts?

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1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

Applying heat is a good thing to try before snapping the bolts off. I would apply your torch to the manifold itself, just focus on the area where the bolt threads are. Do one at a time, and be patient. You're not looking for red hot or anything, but you do need to give it time as the manifold will soak up a lot of heat.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

After a week of soaking with PB Blaster, and then an overnight soak in Kroil, and then using heat, I had to break the two outer bolts.

After further examination I was going to have to break them anyway. When I found this intake & exhaust in the yard, the head for the truck had been removed. At the time I figured that the person just didn't need the intake etc.

Well it looks like they tried to remove the intake and exhaust. And in the process they bent the bottom of the two outer bolts where they extend past the exhaust. Not a lot but enough.

So now the parts go to the media blaster tomorrow and when they get back I will drill out the remainder of the bolts and get this installed in the truck

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1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

I would test fit the manifold on a head first to make sure it hasn't warped. It would be a shame to find out you couldn't install it after it was cleaned up.

I actually checked the set before I even removed it from the yard.

They are true to each other and mostly flat. The Remflex gasket should take care of the slight variation

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1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

Here is what the manifolds look like before heading to the media blaster

Intake:
https://goo.gl/photos/x3t5Rp8SCR1V42hm7

Exhaust:
https://goo.gl/photos/Q3JVzdnkAmTHdLu47

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1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

Got the manifolds back today

Exhaust


Looks good. Still need to take the die grinder to it and remove a couple of broken bolts

Intake

Not what I was hoping for. Appears I have the welded two piece intake. I was reading the supersix article and it stated that I could use and epoxy to fill the holes and then paint.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good epoxy for this purpose?

Thanks

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1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

JB Weld is common & works fine.
DD

Check the floor of the intake for cracks around the EGR port. The last two or three factory two piece aluminum intakes I have looked at had cracks in the intake floor directly below the carb.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.