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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 1:10 pm 
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" Im pretty sure that will buff out.....hold my beer....."

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 3:59 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:25 am
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
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...I will bet the crank needs turned too...
Sure does.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 4:26 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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What is crank turned refer to and how do I do that


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 5:09 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
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Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Not trying to sound critical, but if you have to ask what it is, chances are you won't be able to do it successfully yourself.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 5:18 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
The same machine shop that can bore your cylinders can either grind the crank to the next bearing size or they can send it out to someone who will do the job. You will also want them to deck the block and head so the gasket surface is perfectly flat.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 6:02 pm 
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How can you tell it needs to be grind to the next size


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 Post subject: Yep...
PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 6:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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How can you tell it needs to be grind to the next size
Got Rust?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 9:55 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model: Highly Modified Chevy S10 Race Truck
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How can you tell it needs to be grind to the next size
The journals need to look perfect and they need to measure out within the size specification. The fact that there is visible rust on the crank journals tells me all I need to know. I would not use that crankshaft without first sending it off to the machine shop.

How long do you want this motor to run after you put it together?
How much oil consumption and smoke will you tolerate?

If you want to end up with a long lasting, good running, non-oil burning motor you need to take the block, crank and head to a machine shop and have everything reconditioned by a professional. Besides the machine work you will need new pistons, rings, main bearings and rod bearings. After investing for all that I would also buy new valves. Have someone who knows their stuff inspect the camshaft and lifters.

Then again, if you only want it to maybe run for a week or so and don't care if it burns oil and smokes. Scrape out the rust with some sandpaper and put it all back together and keep your fingers crossed. Don't drive it anywhere you can't walk back from.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 6:46 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Wow, you guys are harsh! :P Telling a guy he can't do it isn't how he's going to learn, we all started somewhere.

Kudos though to ProCycle for giving the OP guidance. camiking23, pay attention to the advice, engine internals are not where you take shortcuts. If the machine work isn't in the budget then hunt up a used engine rather than try to to squeeze life out of anything that has rust on the machined areas.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 10:49 am 
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The alternative...and I have taken it before,,,,is to clean it all up ...hone the crap out of the cylinders....emery up the crank....cast iron rings..

.....to get any result out of that : much skill and assessment ...coupled with time and tools ....will make it run till you crash it.

Cami.....Ill give you a motor ....but you have to come and get it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 11:22 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:41 am
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Location: South Carolina
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Quote:

Cami.....Ill give you a motor ....but you have to come and get it.
That's a 900+ miles ride. I'll take the time to not cut corners but also not drain the resource well.
I appreciate all the advice but this will be a backup or project engine for a build such as the under tiller https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source= ... nxD1lqHswg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 1:43 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1343
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Not being harsh at all. There is only some much you can to describe to someone that has little background knowledge about the subject at hand. And obviously by his comments as to "what is crank turning referring to?", and his follow up questions still showing more confusion after being guided, he is in desperate need of visual mentoring instead of internet mentoring, and should take it to a machine shop and see first hand what is being described by a machinist. Yes, forums are for learning, but some basic background knowledge is required for some topics to be able to comprehend what is being said

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 5:00 pm 
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yes

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 5:06 pm 
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If you want to get past your first motor and are happy if it runs and lasts all summer...go for it. You will learn many things without spending very much money.

Consider the $200 rebuild. (price of hone stones included)

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 5:40 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:41 am
Posts: 198
Location: South Carolina
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$200? What can I get for that? the rebuild kit I was looking at was $500 the master rebuild kit not an overhaul or 're ring


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