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 Post subject: Valve adjustment revisit
PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 7:30 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:40 pm
Posts: 57
Location: United States
Car Model:
I have read Dan's fabulous post from years ago on valve adjustment.

I just have one question. I had the head rebuilt. do I need to do anything before starting the car the first time? Do I need to preset or just start it let it warm up and then pop the cover and get to it.

I had exhaust guides, all seats done, head surfaced, all valves ground and springs shims.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 7:42 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
Car Model:
Yes, adjust them not running cold, but add maybe 0.002-3, so 12 and 22 thousandths for a stock cam to accommodate for expansion (and the shrinking gap) when warm.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 7:47 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
Car Model:
I always adjust cold before starting. It saves bending pushrods and lighting the aircleaner on fire.

......and...after I start it; I warm it up ....shut it off and adjust them again warm.

There is another method involving adjusting while running.....messy,,,, inaccurate.....yet factory approved.

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 Post subject: valve adjust
PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:54 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
Yes, absolutely adjust them during assembly so you don't bend pushrods or whatnot....and yes, leave a few thousandths extra to account for expansion, but after break in, set hot while running as the manufacturer intended.

It doesn't have to be messy. I use some masking tape and four kitchen garbage bags to make a heart surgery type "sterile field." It catches all the oil, and when done simply wrap it all up in a ball and dispose of - no mess!

See: http://tinyurl.com/sterile-field

I'm still figuring out exactly the right feel of the gap tool, but that's why they call them "feeler gauges" I suppose. Also, I used heater hoses with 90 degree bends and a few "S" hoses so I can remove my valve cover easily for this adjustment.

See: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... ort=3&o=12

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... ort=3&o=13

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... ort=3&o=14

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... ort=3&o=17

Brian

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 Post subject: ...another tip
PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:59 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I take a black sharpie and label the masking tape along the side closest to the manifolds with: E I E I E I I E I E I E so I have a quick reminder of which rocker I'm adjusting

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 Post subject: Sterile field
PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 9:20 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:40 pm
Posts: 57
Location: United States
Car Model:
The Doctor is in! :lol:

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 Post subject: one more question
PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 9:25 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:40 pm
Posts: 57
Location: United States
Car Model:
Is there a problem using one of those homemade tools (the hollow spark plug and bolt) to find top dead center or should I use a different method?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 1:17 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:45 am
Posts: 123
Location: Springfield, Nebraska
Car Model:
nothing wrong with the home made tool to find TDC. just be careful with it. the bolt only needs to be so long as to reach the center approximately. then it is best to remove all the plugs that way you can "sneak up on it" easier than if the plugs were installed. The tool will find TDC approximately to within 1 or 2 degrees. So its not for a ultimate engine build but good enough for most. {things like piston offset and carbon buildup and deflection of the tool itself can skew the accuracy }. Most of all its used to verify the accuracy of the timing marks on the front of the engine. Good luck!

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