This is my '85 D150 that I got for $500. 904 and AC. It runs but it is not yet driven on the road. I replaced the tailgate. A neighbor gave me the tool box.

You lucky dog! That is pretty much exactly the kind of truck I have been looking for. Good score!

What does the door badge read? East Central something.

East Central School District. I used acetone to remove some of the decal. Before that it was a federal government GSA vehicle that was used on a military base. I think has this truck had an easy life.

It has a dent on the passenger side rear quarter panel that someone tried to bang out from inside the tail light opening.

Is that a Plymouth coupe in the background?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I have a P15 Plymouth business coupe but that is my 47 Dodge 1/2 ton truck. The seller told me some parts were from a '39 but the title says its a 47.

The issue with my D150 is the passenger rear quarter. I am getting some estimates to repair the damage. I think it is made worse because of the use of a hammer to bang it out.

If you are looking for a truck like that my dad has one in Estacada Oregon he is selling. The only difference is that it is a automatic and four wheel drive.

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~Nic

I have been quote $1,000 to repair the quarter panel. I was told that if I wanted the passenger side to look as good as the drivers side I should replace the panel.

I don't see many short bed D150s. Would the rear portion of the long bed be the same profile as the short bed? I guess I should just wait for a short bed. Is the 3M bonding adhesive okay for use on a truck bed? I'd like it to look good, the body man said that he couldn't make it look exactly like before the dent.

Yes you can use any bed side skin off of the old trucks (early 70s to 80s). But if you are replacing the whole side get one from the 80s so the tail lights match up easier. What are you needing the 3M adhesive for? Do you have the optional trim for it and need to attach it? If so I know some of it was attached by plastic fasteners that were pushed into precut holes in the body. Also I would check other body shops before committing. If he says "cant make it look exactly like before the dent." then I would go some where else.

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~Nic

I was wondering if I could bond a patch panel after the dent was cut out. I looked at several videos. On trucks they remove spot welds and weld the entire replacement side panel.

Its a lot easier to find body shops that replace panels than shops that know how to repair dents. But at $1,000, I think I can fix the dent myself! I have a stud welder.

I have used adhesive to glue on repair panels.

It is the upscale version of duct tape and roller

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Look for an idem called "fuzeore" by 3M. It is a two part apoxy used in body shops when they have a spot they cant get a welder into. There are three types each with a longer set time. It also requires a special "calk" gun with two plungers and also a mixing tube you put on the end. There not cheap but we took a 20Lb sledge hammer and glued it to the roof at the car dealership I worked at. Its still there....... I dont know where you are at but this is where I get it in Longview, WA http://www.evergreenpaint.com/

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~Nic

Does anyone have recommendations for a rotary sheet metal nibbler that uses a rechargeable drill for the power source? There are plenty of low cost nibblers, I'd like to be able to buy quality replacement blades. The demos for cheap models on Youtube look impressive - as they always do.

I can cut the patch from a salvage vehicle by going through the tail light opening. The yard would charge a good deal to cut it out for me. I can also use tin snips, but I did that once and the task took most of a day. There is plenty of cheap used sheet metal, I think patching makes more sense than working out the dent, especially as someone got off to a bad start with the pointed end of a hammer.