I have the service manual and have read the instructions for removing the engine. But it refers to special Service tools by #. Is there any reference material that will show me step by step, with a few pictures? If I get the balls to do this, I am a complete novice.
Also how does one boil out the engine if I don't have an engine bather tank?

Lastly, which things would require me to take it to a machine shop and have them do some of the work?

Still trying to determine my best/smartest course of action for this engine situation. (rods are rattling real bad, no oil pressure)

My options as I see it:
1. Take to rebuilder, have him do it it all incl R n R. $2100 1 year warranty
2. Buy a reman engine, install it myself - $1400 7 year warranty
3. Rebuild myself - $700 in parts, $400 in machine labor?

last 2 options would also require me to get ahold of hoist and stand, and also set up a temporary shelter for the engine (outdoors)

_________________
66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

How did you determine that the rods are rattling real bad, and that there's no oil pressure?

First, what year is the engine?

Secondly, have you checked and/or changed the oil and filter? (I've seen engines with the incorrect filter on them that barely allowed enough flow to keep it dfrom rattling, but showed no oil pressure on a direct-mounted mechanical gauge.)

Third, who advised you as to the pricing you posted? You might get by with $700 in parts, if you find nothing wrong internally. If you need machine work, $400 won't get you very far, and then the parts cost goes up, too.

Roger

This is one of the few circumstances in which I think the Haynes and Chilton's manuals are a better resource for a beginner mechanic than are the factory service manuals. The Haynes and Chiltons books will tell you how to remove and install and engine using basic tools that a home mechanic has instead of the specialized factory tools.

That being said, I second all of GTS225s questions and comments. You may be fine with an oil filter or oil pump change, provided the knocking and low oil pressure hasn't been a long term problem.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Couple more questions that come to mind.
How many miles on the car/engine?
How long have you had it, or how much of it's history is known to you? (not what you were told, what you know)

I'm trying to steer you toward an on-line diagnosis before you dive in for an engine overhaul. Many of these slant six cars were neglected as they got older, but that engine is pretty tough, and there's been more than a few brought back from the dead, so to speak, and lived for many more miles.

Roger

Hey guys thanks so much for your replies. Let me answer a few of the questions.
I bought this car as a project for me and my son to work on. I have no experience with old cars. I have never attempted a restore.
I thought I had come across a good project car that ran and could be a daily driver for me, as we worked on other things.

I bought it 2 months ago, 1966 Dodge Dart 270 w/ L6 225. It sounded good, drove good, didnt smoke, had some minor leaks and needed some brake work.

Changed the oil and all plugs , wires, etc... and then began to hear a real loud knocking at a certain rpm, but not as much at idle. I even made a video of it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuDIvNJ26gg

It actually is knocking even louder now.

I have no history, I get the feeling the car has been sitting for a couple years.

Oil light never goes out. I tried a mechanical gauge and it doesnt move much, stays below 10psi at all times. (I also replaced the sensor, no change)

Miles: speedometer/odomter does not function, so unknown.

I took it to an engine rebuilder, and as soon as he heard the knock he said he thought it was rod(s) and/or bearings.

Trouble shooting I have done:
Compression test wet and dry. averaged around 125, but cyl 5 was lowest at 100.
Tried removing sparkplug one at a time while running, could not get knock to change.

Removed and cleaned the PRV.

removed all belts and still same sound.

Removed starter and checked flexplate, tight.

I have also removed the valve cover and did a lash, very minor adjustment on a few.

I can drive this car now, it just gets loud at certain speed. (but it is just as noisy if not in gear).

I am now trying to determine best course of action. And being a newbie, I dont want to get myself in too deep and be without a car for an extended period of time.

I could not find a Chilton manual for this year,. Do they make one?

_________________
66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

Oh I should add, the engine rebuilder pointed out that the engine has been worked on before, pointing to the Dorman engine plugs.

_________________
66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

OK, I'd have to agree with your rebuilder. It seems weird that the knocking sounds somewhat random, not rythmic like it would be for a single bad rod bearing, but I'm not right there on hand to hear it, either.

There's more guys on here, with more experience than I have, so exercise a little patience and wait for more responses. Maybe Doug will pop in and throw out an opinion.

(I wonder if the previous mechanic missed torqueing a rod bearing properly?)

In the meantime, start checking around for rental prices on a "cherry picker" (engine hoist/crane), and engine stand. Also pick up a pair of jack stands from Harbor Freight. (I buy the 6-ton rated stands and mentally de-rate them to 3 tons. Chinese metallurgy, you know.)

Roger

That is more of a rattle than a knock

_________________
hot rodder at heart!

As has been mentioned, the fact the knock is not constant is odd. Usually the knock is a repetitive cyclical continuous knock.

The oil light never going out is not a good sign. While it could be a bad sending unit, it likely is a low/no oil pressure issue.

I recently worked on a slant six engine that had similar symptoms to yours- knocking that was somewhat inconsistent but got louder with higher RPMs and the oil light never went out. I determined that the low oil pressure was caused by a failed oil pump. The engine would not knock on first cold startup, but as soon as the engine warmed up the oil light would come on and the engine would knock. A new oil pump probably would have solved the problem, but the owner of the car wanted to install a remanufactured engine.

I advise first installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Try and get accurate readings of your oil pressure when the engine is idling cold and idling hot.

I next recommend you inspect the oil pump. Replace the filter with a Wix, Purolator, or Fleetguard brand filter. Next, clean the oil pressure relief valve in the pump. Finally, make sure you are running 5W-30 oil.

If you have very low or no oil pressure, you can try installing a new oil pump. That might fix the knocking problem.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Once upon a time we had a Cadillac where the flex plate was bolted to the torque converter lugs but...........

the welds for the lugs were broken so they were banging around......

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Are you sure that is inside the block? It almost sounded like a bad water pump or bearings in the alternator or power steering pump. I've heard all of those make a similar noise in various cars.

Make sure to check carefully, listen, see if you can locate at least approximately where that's coming from (don't get cut by your fan)...might not be too bad, though you should figure out that oiling issue, if it exists. Did you notice if the rockers were oiling well when you adjusted the lash?

brian

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2