Psst...how 'bout changing the way the rear half of the stock exhaust manifold is reworked by chopping and capping-off the top of the centre stack, so the top of the rear-3 casting doesn't have to bolt to anything, freeing you up to use whatever unheated intake you want to use, and keeping the stock headpipe flange location for the rear-3 headpipe?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It's a good suggestion...great minds think alike.
That's what I did a couple of years ago so I could fit my Clifford manifold, but I've had periodic problems with the welds not holding up around this top plate(getting pin hole exhaust leaks) and I'm tired of rewelding it. Plus, it looks ugly. I'm trying to un-rig-together my car from years of daily driving and fixing things just to make them work.

I have had welds on cast iron hold up, and the welds on the "chopped off front branch" have held up, but with this top plate there always seem to be cracks and holes developing over time. Just pin-sized, mind you. I think the cause is expansion and contraction of this large steel plate section (relative to the iron manifold) putting stress on the welds. I know the coefficients of expansion for cast iron and steel are very close, though. Bad welds afterall? Maybe I just want to give Doug more money. Who knows...sorry for the ramble...bed time.

Yes, capping off the heat opening is another way to do it, it does look unsightly but it is in a place that is hard to see.
DD
http://www.dutra.org/pictures/engine/pa ... p-side.jpg

Interesting photo...what's the deal with the half-manifold at the top centre of that photo? Why is there a round hole in one of the runners?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Early style choke pocket?

Check out this new clockable mini starter I just came across at Manciniracing.com. It is a Powermaster clockable mini starter. It has what looks to be about 30 Degrees of rotation built into the starter for positional adjustment.

I wonder if this would solve your(and others) clearance issues.

Also I wonder if this starter would solve clearance issues in regards to running Dual Dutra Duals on a 170. (I want to do a twin turbo 170 so bad.)

Oh, yeah, I see it now; it's actually a '70-'72 "open stove" type choke provision. The angle was screwing with my perspective.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My way (replace the starter terminal extensions) is about $279 less expensive.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I realize that, but this new starter might open up new options that your connector options might not. Like DDD on a 170 (with twin turbos?, from the looks of things on the 225 pictures I see with dual Dutras that a twin turbo 170 looks unlikely on the DDD setup, unless a truck bellhousing with the low starter was used instead of the standard car bellhousing). I was just getting some new information out to the masses (assuming it is new since I had never heard or seen it before).

I started this thread when my mechanic kept worrying that there wouldn't be room to put the exhaust pipe on the rear manifold. But my muffler man took the photos Doug sent me, bent upward on the exhaust pipe and easily cleared the mini starter from an '89 MoPar engine. In fact the heat shield might not be needed, but in view of the hyperpak strength of this engine, I'm going to err on the side of caution. The Dutra Duals are ceramic coated to look like chrome, and they are going to work very well with the mini starter, with good clearance for a 2 1/4 inch true dual exhaust, front to rear, with an X-pipe just aft of the frame crossover where the trans. bracket is installed just behind the trans. tail shaft. I would recommend these cast iron manifolds due to their strength and permanence. And they look great!

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

Should I expect my wife's 70 Valiant's original starter cable to fit the referenced terminal block?

I just used the posts that came on the junkyard Denso in my van and attached new crimp terminals to the old cable. (Bastard pre-cat had already cooked original terminal beyond usefullness.)

I'd like to have a neater installation in the wife's car (which still has original cable intact).

I was going to make an adapter until I saw this thread.

Thanks for sharing this Dan!!


Really useful Post!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I think this should be in the electrical section as part of the FAQ sticky!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Just for clarification, Dan, the mini-starter from the later model Chryslers does clear the hyperpaks, right? I think that was in the hyperpak thread.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... ort=3&o=21

That clockable one's price, though high, seems lower than I've seen elsewhere, usually in the $400+ range if they have adjustable mounts.


Thanks,

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Yes, with the Hyper Pak rear exhaust or DDD you want the starter for the '05-'08 Dodge Ram Hemi w/manual transmission, as described here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.