My exhaust flange gasket seems to have fallen apart on the side facing the engine. Does anyone have any tips on undoing the two bolts that hold the exhaust pipe to the manifold? Mine appear to have been replaced with brass bolts -- they are still 'gold' colored and not rusty, but how do you get enough clearance there to get them turning? Especially the 'inboard' bolt that's deep under the manifold and nearest the engine? I don't have clearance there for a deep socket and the wrench. And on top there isn't quite the clearance between the bolt head and the manifold to get the 5/8 socket over it, but not enough clearance between the inner fender and the manifold to get a good-sized flat wrench there either!

Maybe I'll just let some folks at a muffler shop handle this one?

I doubt they're brass, they are likely TiN coated grade 9 bolts. It is wise to use hardy bolts in exhaust manifolds because they are exposed to a lot of heat and can get brittle and break. Brass would never be enough for this application, they'd break off easily.

You should be able to get to both bolts from underneath your car. At least mine are accessible with two longer extensions and a 5/8 shallow socket from underneath my car.

When reinstalling exhaust manifold bolts you might want to coat them with some high temp anti-seize compound as well. Here are a few good choices:

http://www.totalindustrialsupply.com/Pr ... lick=80157

If you want to go nuclear, literally, there is this:

http://www.cometsupply.com/mp/NEVER-SEE ... fgod29gCNw

I don't think there is any serious difference for the second one, the performance characteristics appear to be the same as the first one.

Brian

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

The clearance can be tight. I've had to use open end wrenches on a few installations. That can be a challenge. If you have a universal socket, sometimes you can get to them that way. Since these are baked in and may require some torque, consider using 1/2" drive sockets for removal.

Liberal use of penetrating fluid, like PB-Blaster or similar is advisable. If you've some experience working with stubborn fasteners, that helps. If not, consider using a shop. Once you get started, you'll need to finish. If you have a place for that, and the time, not a problem. On a daily driver in a carport, not so much. (Unless you have tolerant neighbors and a bicycle.)


CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Could be stainless.

When you heat up stainless, it changes color.

I've seen goldenish to bluish....

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes