The idle is good and the gas pedal feel is awesome.
The only problem is that when you floor it, the rpm's can't climb high and it starts to make a brapbrapbrap kinda noise like your choke flap was closed.
When you ease off the pedal, it accelerates smoothly..

So you have to accelerate slowly cause WOT gives either too much gas or doesn't get enough air.. (I'm still not sure if the automatic choke is fully open) I had a manual choke and i could replicate the symptom by pulling the manual choke lever to close the flap when my engine is warm and then flooring it.. It goes but doesn't climb fast in rpm's..


If it isn't the choke then how can i adjust the carb so it stops doing this?

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If you had read the Super Six article HERE you would have learned that one of the differences between the 225 and the 318 BBDs is the choke linkage, specifically the orientation of the eye on the piece of the linkage the rod from the choke thermostat attaches to. The 318 has the choke thermostat directly blow the carb with the rod near vertical. The 225 has the choke thermostat behind the carb with the rod at an angle. Because of the different placement of the choke thermostats, the linkage piece is different between the 225 and the 318. Using a 318 BBD linkage piece on a 225 will result in a choke that does not open fully.

You have two options: track down a 225 BBD linkage piece and replace the 318 piece, or build an adapter to use the 318 linkage piece with the 225 choke thermostat as is discussed HERE.

Okay i checked all the linkages and stuff and the choke linkage was on backwards.. Well now i have a choke for those cold mornings..


Next problem is this:





Image from google.

Yeah adjusting those things affect my running and when i started fiddling with those things, i could get past 3000rpm and start accelerating.. But still at WOT it wont accelerate fast, it burbles instead and if i just keep WOT, it will burble for a time and then make a loud bang..

I'm getting too much gas and not enough air.
How do i adjust this thing?

If you lift the left lever up, that means more gas?

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Yes. The screw the green arrow is pointing to in that picture is the set screw for the accelerator pump adjustment. The other screw controls the metering rod setting. Adjusting the metering rods affects how rich or lean the fuel mixture is and at what point in the opening of the throttle the mixture will richen or lean.

There are specific procedures and measurements for each of those settings. Those settings are not something that should be done by guessing or estimation.

See the BBD manual HERE for directions on how to adjust everything on your carburetor.

So is this accurate?




So i adjust it more lean and give it more volume and i should be getting more power?


I'm using a 318 carb in a 225 so i guess that the jets are bigger so i want to lean it out.. So i want to get the needles go down more so that leans the mixture? Or do i want to get the needles more up?

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The main jets are not necessarily larger on the carburetor. You ned to read the manual I provided a link to. In general, the arrows you put in the picture are correct. However, these are delicate settings and a small adjustment makes a big difference. I recommend you set them according to the specifications in the manual and look for performance problems elsewhere.

The manual is very confusing.. It doesn't really tell you how to set it but it only says that don't use a 318 carb on a 225.. But some people tell me that you can use it if you lean it out..

Wish someone could just tell me how to set those two screws so i can finally get it to work..


I'm on a rush cause i need the car to work ASAP cause i have to go to work every day.. And driving 50mph everyday cause the engine won't let me go higher is really crippling the time i arrive at work.. My old leaky carb wouldn't let me idle but it let me drive 90mph at max..

New carb won't let me go past 50 cause it's getting too rich..



EDIT:
Okay from this it's more simpler:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supers ... adjust.jpg


So i press the hex bolt thing down and the notch down at the same time and just tighten the screw back on.. Will this make the 318 leaner to work on the 225?

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Okay i finally got it to work so it won't bog down at high rpm but without the airfilter cover.. After i put the airfilter back on, bang it dosn't work again..

i leaned the metering rods a bit and it seems to work a little bit better..
I just need to lean it a bit more going 1/2 mm at a time..
Maybe i need to adjust the accelerator pump.. The old one was 12mm and the new one was 16mm so i think i need to adjust it down to 12mm?

Oh well 2 days of adjusting the carb and i got some progres.. i can drive 60mph now but the acceleration takes longer than it should...

where's a chrysler mechanic when you need one.. All the adjustments are now balanced on those two dreaded screws.. Factory specs will only adjust it to fit a 318.. I need 225 specs on a 318 carb..


I tried the adjustments those manuals had but it didn't work with those.. It was too rich.. I'm under a lot of stress at the moment so it's very hard to concentrate and + i'm really on a rush cause i have tonnes of things to do and getting to work is a priority.. The gasket is already mush cause i have opened the top about +27 times..

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Fixed the issue by putting it on factory specs and then richening it a little bit and applying 1/5 choke.

It needs the choke flap to be a little closed and boom it started to accelerate.. Finally it works..

I put a piece of tube on my choke lever so it won't close all the way (The flap won't open all the way)

Seems like it works.

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