Currently My car has idle and will accelerate and go over 60mph.

Problem is that my choke is always half way closed up.
If i pull the choke completely shut, my car will bog and want to stall if i press the gas pedal down to the floor.. And if i push the choke all the way open, my car will go kind of ratatata and not accelerate past a certain rpm.. Closing the choke half way will get rid of the ratata thing and start to accelerate normally.. But when i'm on 3rd gear @ low rpm's.. And i want to overtake somebody.. If i press the gas pedal down to engage kickdown, the car will bog down and if i pump the gas pedal in a certain way, some times i manage to activate the kickdown and start to accelerate hard on second gear..


The two screws that work the metering rods and accelerator pump are out of spec cause i screwed around with them trying to make it work..

Idle mixture screws are turned in until the idle starts to stall and then turned out until it starts to stall and then turned right in the middle. (Correct adjustment)

Idle speed is around 650rpms while engaged in drive. 900rpm when on P or N.

Car starts by putting pulling the choke all the way closed and then pumping the gas pedal 2 times.. Starts up like if it was fuel injected.. My rpm's at full choke are 1000rpm.

My vacuum lines are connected:
-Throttlebody has 3 ports.. One in the front between mixture screws is plugged cause i don't have a charcoal canister.
Two on the back are two identical large ports.. One closer to the rockercover is connected to the PCV valve.. The other is connected to the vacuum port on the intake that connects to the brake booster. (I'm assuming it's wrongly connected cause it's a small vacuum line thats taped up to work on a bigger port.)

The red vacuum line comeing from the firewall is connected to the back of the carburetor and the grey line is just curled up and not even plugged.. Not sure if it's a vacuum line or a electrical wire?

The distributor line is connected to the back of the carburetor near where the red line is connected to.

Bowl vent is plugged cause i don't have a charcoal canister.

Thermo valve on the air cleaner housing is connected to the air cleaner housing behind the air filter under the housing..

The vacuum thing on the exhaust valve is connected to the box on the side of the air cleaner housing and the top port of the box is plugged.


Found some old pics (I'm running a different carb):



The vacuum lines are hooked up identically as the old carb was hooked up earlier

The one line disconnected on the picture next to the pcv valve vacuum port is re connected and the port is as big as the pcv valve port. (The tiny vacuum line is crammed inside the port and taped up)




How can i get it to accelerate and idle smoothly without any bogging up or having to have the choke 1/2 way pulled in?






My first quess is that the small vacuum line that connects from the intake manifold to the throttlebody is incorrectly hooked up and it's springing an vacuum leak by bypassing fuel and getting air trough the line?

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Can you post pictures of the carburetor you currently have installed on the engine? Can you post pictures of how the hoses and choke thermostat are connected?

The choke should open fully once the motor is warmed up. If it doesn't, you have a problem. If the engine does not run right with the choke all the way open, you have a problem.

It sounds like you need to get a factory service manual for you car or at least read the Super Six article and see how everything is supposed to be hooked up.

Can you post a link that has a clear picture of how to hook up a carter BBD when you have a charcoal canister and vacuum booster deleted?

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No. I don't have such a photo.

If you have disconnect the vacuum booster for the brakes, just put a big cap on the vacuum tree on the number six intake runner. If you have disconnected the charcoal canister, just love the fittings on the carburetor for the charcoal canister hoses uncapped.

Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone knows the base adjustments on the holly single barrel carb

I want to check the air fuel setting to make sure I'm not running lean

The car is operated at about 30 feet above see level

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Old but hopefully a goodie

Carburetor operation and repair information, including how to rebuild and tune them , is located in a sticky in the Engine frequently asked questions section. Click HERE to be taken there directly.

Here are some fresh pictures taken today.












Thanks reed, i'll have a read.. But in the mean time i'm just looking for quick help because i'm going to have to drive 400km's tomorrow and i want to do last minute adjustments really quick..

So the bowl vent needs to be unplugged? Do i need to put a filter of some sort to it or should i just keep it plugged until i get the charcoal canister in the mail? What is the purpose of the bowl vent?

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The bowl vent and the canister purge port (between the idle mixture screws) both connect to the charcoal canister. The bowl vent allows fuel vapor that evaporate out of the fuel bowl when the engine is off to collect in the charcoal canister. When the car is started, the fuel vapors stored in the canister are drawn back into the carburetor instead of evaporating into the atmosphere.

The red hose on the back of the carburetor needs to be connected to the vacuum tree on the #6 intake runner. You currently have it connected to the EGR vacuum signal port. That red hose is the vacuum supply for your heating and air conditioning system. Without proper vacuum the doors in the heating system won't function properly.

I see you have a manual choke. A misadjusted manual choke is likely why the choke doesn't open all the way wen the engine is warm.

The hose with a bolt in the end that is on the vacuum port below the choke linkage needs to be removed. That vacuum port is the vacuum advance signal for your distributor. There needs to be a hose from the vacuum advance pod on the distributor to this vacuum port.

No the manual choke works fine. I need to keep the choke closed a bit or it'll run too lean. If i keep it open all the way, my engine will go RTTTTT when i floor it instead of climbing on rpm's... If i pull the choke half way closed, the engine will accelerate fast and smooth.. If i pull the choke all the way closed, it'll do the bogging down thing..

Wish i had a chrysler mechanic who knew how to set the metering rods and accelerator pump so it'll work on my setup.. I tried setting it to factory specs with the repair kit thing but the instructions are hard to understand.. (We use centimeters and millimeters instead of inches.)


Okay, well what is my distributor vacuum line connected to then?
It's next to the red hose..


Also do i need to redo my timing after connecting the vacuum line to the correct spot?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Original one won't work if it's misadjusted and incorrectly hooked up.

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The Super Six article includes instructions and scans of instruction on how to attach all the vacuum hoses to your carburetor and how to adjust everything on your carburetor, including the metering rods.

The BRRRRRR sound when you accelerate is a combination of misadjusted settings on the carburetor, incorrectly connected vacuum advance on the distributor (you currently have it connected to the port for the vacuum choke pullout that was removed when the manual choke was fitted), improperly timed engine, and who knows what else on that carburetor.

The carburetor should operate just fine with the choke all the way open. If it doesn't, you need to fix the problem correctly, not mask it by making the carburetor run rich with the choke partially closed.

Here is the link to the Super Six article again:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supersix/article.htm

AND the manual to rebuild and adjust your Carter BBD carburetor is available here:

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55801

That wasn't my point.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.