Let me explain the question: I have the remnants of 2 or 3 engine gasket sets all jumbled together. I think I need to replace my valve stem seals, and I was wondering if I already had the right ones for a 1967 slant. So I was hoping someone who knew what they looked like could link a photo, or just say "They're the black ones with a yellow band, about this diameter". Doing a parts search online isn't helpful because they all use "generic" photos -- I know this because they all show sets of 8 or 16 seals, not 6 or 12. Of course, if you tell me they are the same as a small block then that would solve it, too.

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Max
1967 Barracuda Convertible

Intake valve stem seals look this this: (Sealed Power MV1771, Fel-Pro SS13955, Victor Reinz B45298)



Exhaust valve stem seals look like this: (Sealed Power MV1918, Fel-Pro SS12764, Victor Reinz B45327)



They should both have a 3/8" hole. They are the same ones used on at least some Mopar small blocks, so that's why they're frequently sold in packs of 8. I'm also seeing the same Sealed Power numbers as above on RockAuto with a C on the end of the number, but I don't know what the difference might be. Sealed Power repackages a lot of stuff from other manufacturers, so god only knows.

There are also "positive locking" valve stem seals that lock to the valve guide boss rather than riding on the valve stem, but they require machining of the guide bosses and some people don't recommend them for reasons I don't recall offhand. They look like this:

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Positive seals are just that they don't let any oil down the stems, they are meant for short term use (like racing)....long term constant road use will wear out the stems and guides....

I figured someone must know. Thanks for taking the time to respond. I have only recently inherited a leaning tower of power and am learning something new every day.

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Max
1967 Barracuda Convertible

So if I want to replace the valve stem seals...

I need to remove the rocker arm assembly and springs, right?

Then what? Do I have to remove the head?

Can I use compressed air to keep valves up while I remove springs?

Is there a special valve spring compressor that works while head is installed?

Any expertise is always appreciated. Thanks!

Neil

Yes, you have to remove the rocker shaft and the valve springs. You can either remove the head, or take some precaution to make sure the valves don't fall down in the cylinder. Compressed air is one way. Another low-tech way is to buy some rope with a small enough diameter to run through the spark plug hole, and push as much of it in as you can fit. (Don't lose the end!) It helps if you can rotate the engine to bring each cylinder up to TDC before doing those two valves. I've never actually done this; I only saw SlantSixDan recommend it and thought it was genius. Obviously you'll be changing one or two seals at a time if you keep the head in place.

You'll need a valve spring compressor, which you should be able to rent from the local parts store. If you take the head off, you can use the giant C-clamp compressor that holds the valve in place on the underside. If you do it with the head on the car, you have to use the cheesy little one that grabs onto the spring coils. These can have a tendency to slip off with the spring compressed, which can send parts flying. I like to use a small quick-grip clamp (with the rubber jaws) to keep the spring compressor tight against the sides of the spring as soon as it starts to get tight. Like this:

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Rope technique here

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