Please accept my apology! I did not mean to sound harsh to you at all. You may be very correct in your analysis. I sometimes vent my thoughts / frustrations with the way things are, compared to how they should be.

Imagine how this would have been if Sam's install would have been silky smooth. And when he had a problem that they would have bent over backwards to make it right immediately. It would have created positive comments for them even if there were problems.

By the way I am one of those mechanical people. Electrical, not so much!!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Absolutely; I run my own small family business and try to bend over backwards with fixing 'issues'; we work in a small customer-base industry (cellular) and any faux pas's get amplified and you can't run away from a bad reputation with a small circle of customers. GV may well not be aware that this is being discussed openly.

And I hope not make anyone feel bad who is mechanical. I worked in engineering for many years, and there was always a distinct knowledge base different between electronic and mechanical engineering with very few people who could crossover and mix the disciplines to any real degree. That seems to extend into the 'car world' and has implications IMO for a mixed system like this one.

Gear Vedors has met their obligation at this point. The short speedo drive cable extension which is supposed to work better with the electronic speedo sender did arrive two days ago. After a bit of playing with it, (polished the barrel of the female end) it seemed to work freely enough to install. I have not installed the tail shaft gear unit, as I did not want to risk trouble which would prevent my going to Mason Dixon on Sunday.

The manual control works fine now. I put the light in the A pillar pod, and like that, however, I inadvertently hit the switch when backing into my parking space at last night's cruise-in, and backed a short way in OD, which is supposed to be a big no-no. It seemed absolutely fine on the drive home, but will proceed with wiring a relay into the back up light circuit which will disable the solenoid upon putting it in reverse. I do not wish to take the console out another time, so will likely put the relay on the fender and run the wires with the speedo wires under the car.

At this point I actually see no reason to put the automatic control back in. I am perfectly happy to drive it with manual OD. The automatic control switched to OD too soon for my taste. Choosing between 2nd under and 2nd over is a terrific addition to the tractability of this drive train. The ideal way to get up to highway speed seems to be to start with the gear selector in 2nd gear (actually starts in low of course), let it shift to 2nd, then shift into 2nd over at 2000 RPM, and then shift into 3rd over when it hits 2000 or 2200 on the highway. I have not figured out how to get from 2nd over to 3rd under gracefully yet. This involves moving the shifter forward and clicking the manual button at nearly the same time. Nearly is the key. So far I have not been smart enough to make it happen seamlessly. So going from 2nd over into 3rd over is a simple move of the shifter, and works well. Going from 2nd under to 2nd over keeps the engine more nicely in its easy rpm range which is about 1800 rpm. This engine loves that rpm. I may change my mind as I become more familiar with its characteristics.

SAm

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Going from 3rd over to 2nd (not over) is best done by?

I have to come up with something simple that works for my wife.

So if she shifts once into OD going up and once coming out of OD going down might work for her.

So going up she shifts into OD when in 2nd if I understand your write-up.

How about the same coming down ie shifts out of OD when in 2nd?

This issue is of course in traffic when you frequently don't come to a stop.

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1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.

I looked at a GV installation very recently and the installation used a 2nd headlight dimmer floor switch for the GV engage/disengage. That might make your 2OD-3rd shifts easier.

The wiring into the reverse light circuit for a reverse lock-out sounds like a very good idea!

I think I am finally beginning to understand how to drive this more smoothly. There is no slippage in the clutch of the OD, so it shifts hard. In order to get more graceful shift action you need to think a little bit like you are driving a stick shift while letting the clutch out, and do a bit of RPM matching. It is not hard, but every combination of shifting is a bit different.

All I have gotten decent at so far is the understanding that if the lights (into OD),comes on in the same range, the rpm will drop, and I must lift the throttle slightly. This produces a seamless upshift. If the light goes off in the same gear (into underdrive), the rpm will rise, thus requiring a slight increase in pedal pressure. I can, at this point, produce seamless down shifts in the SAME gear selector slot.

It gets more complicated when shifting into another gear and turning the OD on and off. I am still working on this. You must figure the delay on the OD engagement, and the change in rpm. I am sure I will get reasonably good at it eventually.

Bottom line: I love having the Over Drive in the car. It is possible to keep the engine in its happy rpm range (1800 to 2000) all the time. The cars purrs along happy as can be. If it gets down to 1500 the exhaust tone and the AF ratio get unhappy. Above 2200 and the exhaust tone and AF ratio are not as happy. I may be wrong about this, but have always felt that when the exhaust tone on my slants is the quietest, it is working most efficiently. I doubt very much if I will put the auto computer back in. It seems like it is an unessential complication.

I paid my local mechanic $100 to install the new speedometer cable gear drive, and it all works fine. It would have taken me half a day to lower the exhaust, remove the cross member, lower the trans, pry out the defective part and reverse everything. While I mowed the lawn, my car got fixed. After a bike ride I drove the Dart to the local cruise in. I feel fortunate to have a mechanic who understands and will work on old cars. He has a 66 Mustang he wrenches on for himself. I save my time for the kind of fun fabrication work that would cost a fortune to have someone else do.

Oh yeah, I have wired a relay into the backup light circuit to lock out the OD in reverse. I have the relay wired, but have not cut into the wiring for the OD yet. That requires removing the console again unless I can track down the ground wire for the indicator light, and it happens to be under the hood and not under the dash.

Sam

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Sounds like the GV will be good for a trip to Chrysler Carlisle?!

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1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.

You bet. I will be ther on Friday, parked on the infield with the other A bodies. Hope to see you there.

Sam

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I'm hoping that the GV is still performing to your expectations.

I'm rebuilding a 904 to replace my 833 OD due to knee issue ( and wife driving limitation) so the GV is my way out to still get OD.
I'm hoping your GV experience is still positive despite the install challenges from a GV package that could be improved.

Do you document your custom electrical modifications with an "as built" electrical diagram. If so is it available for consumption?

Thanks for sharing your photos and info....I have built a folder of every detail provided to help in my 65 Dart install

ps: do you have dimensions from rear of 904 tailshaft to where you stopped slicing the floor tunnel?

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1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.

It works fine. I think I might recommend going with the stock wiring. The electronic speedo was the problem here. I think it will work fine with your standard cable driven speedo. I can get the dimensions you want. I will try to do it soon.

Sam.

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Getting the GV computer to do the thinking would be a plus for my situation where the stock speedo is used.

Any custom wiring info would be appreciated.

I have no expectation that GV would have corrected the instructions & getting the kit right on first shipping.
That leaves room for a pleasant surprise and avoids disappointments.

My left knee saw more Doctor action today so it's confirmed....
My overhauled 904 will definitely replace the 833 when the engine rebuild is completed & re-installed.
I'll prime, run, & adjust the slant on my in garage test stand this winter before mounting the 904.

http://wp.me/p5UHWX-2b

Thanks for your help

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1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.

Hi Don. My cut out for the overdrive extends back 22" from the tranny cross member. This is just behind the rear bolts for the front seat.

Sam

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Thanks for the dimension; the thinking is to cut that far back before replacing extension with GV extension and then bend floor back in to best match GV extension shape before adding remaining floor pieces to fill the gap.

Your pictures are very helpful.

My 904 auto is rebuilt but waiting on engine machining; engine assembly and testing might not finish up until end of year.

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1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.

That was what I did. I cut a slice down the center of the tunnel with a hand held jib saw, then cut down the side of the tunnel at the rear and front, and bent the sides it straight up from the floor. I installed all mechanicals, including the drive shaft before filling in the extra sheet metal. I wrapped the OD in plastic to keep metal chips out.

I had already opened up the tunnel many years ago for the T-5,so did not have to fill in as much as you might. I picked at this project for months as I filled in the tunnel, and fabricated the console assembly.

Sam

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I'll use same steps and process.
Thanks
Don

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1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.