OK, so I am looking up replacement distributor gears. I am familiar with the nylon gear on every slant six I have ever known. I checked online at Advance and Auto Zone and both of them listed a bronze replacement gear. I was unaware that they even made one like that.
I have never really had a problem with the nylon gears except I usually break them when taking them off or putting them on (if I am not careful).
Has anyone used the bronze gear? Is it recommended over the nylon one or should I just stick to the factory stuff?

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

We've had many and lively discussions on this board. I was having cam failure issues and postulating that perhaps the plastic gear was failing first, but after much debate and wisdom from the experts here, I've come to the conclusion that I agree with them, my problem was not the gear but cheap Chinese metal in the cam. The plastic gear only goes along for the ride and is plenty durable for it's intended purpose.

...and, actually, a bronze gear might wear out faster because it's metal. If not meshed very well, and lubed very well, it may have a short lifespan.

Stick with the nylon one.

brian

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There is also a steel version from Australia that goes on Bosch dizzy's. The shaft hole is a bit smaller, but the gear pattern is identical.

Here are all three versions side by side:

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=0

I gave my metal gears to DD for racing applications if he needs them (and 'cause DD is just a nice guy).

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I've never had a problem with the nylon gear at high rpm (6200)..... if you are all out race and worry about it...spend the money and deep six the thing for a set of coil packs and a crank trigger...

I have a set of DG-404 gears in my stockpile from way back when I was going to install a billet roller cam....(not sure that's needed now)... The bronze gear will be tougher than the nylon gear, but if it sacrifices itself the particles swept up in the oil pan will kill the bearings (assuming the loss of the oil pump gear at the same time doesn't do it for you...), and putting a magnet in the pan won't help there... if you decide to go that direction, you may be in for having to lap the cam/oil pump/distributor gear assembly together....and you may want to install some kind of oiling tip to shoot some oil directly onto the assembly.

Doc's Cam Button mod will help keep the cam from walking and taking the gears out of mesh....

Well, I can get at least three nylon gears for the price of one bronze gear.
I'll be sticking with plastic ones. I was just making certain that something new (to me) hasn't come up regarding the distributor gear.
Thanks guys.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Badvert65 You have a PM

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

OK. Back-atcha.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Get an external belt driven oil pump - forget about the crappy 'ma mopar cam gear / oil gear interface ( it's fine for stock applications) ( and people have made it work in hi HP RPM App's too - I chose to take a different approach) and it will keep your nylon gear happy on the distributor.

I only shredded a nylon gear when the oil pump and cam gear did not play well togther - that was about 3 years ago - then went to the external pump.


The external pump will cost about as much as one Bronze gear. (if you get one custom made)
Greg

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The bronze item is a Dorman 90453, which is listed for a bunch of Ford applications. (I'd be interested to see if this pinion can be installed using its predrilled holes and wind up with correct end play, or if you have to cross-drill it like you have to do with the nylon pinion).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

On a side note, I see that bronze gear fits Ford V-6 applications. That makes me wonder if any of the Ford distributorless ignition systems could be easily adapted to the slant six....

Greg,

I was seriously considering the external oil pump route after having shredded two, yes two, consecutive cam shafts/dizzy gears with only about 10k miles on each build...but the cam button seems, so far to be working (and a good camshaft from DD). I have about 4000 miles on my slant and I've pulled the dizzy at least 3 times, no wear on the dizzy gear and the cam and oil pump gears look flawless. If, gulp, I should have another incident (my wife would lose her patience with my slant sickness), I'm going with external oil pump or ...mega gulp...don't hate me...go with a 340 or a modern engine (5.7L ?).

If that someday comes again, moment of silence as I pray to the SL6 gods, I may PM you for external oil pump info.

Brian

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Hey Dan, that's cool, I didn't know that. I had a '95 Taurus, but it was the ill fated (but powerful) 3.8L engine, not the 3.0L.

b

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My family had an 89 Sable wagon. Biggest piece of crap we ever owned (and we have owned lots of cheap cars). Engine ran good, when it ran. Routing the upper radiator hose in contact with the exhaust manifold was not one of Ford's best engineering choices.

That 3.0 was no prize, either. When I worked at the yard, one of the games we countermen used to play to keep ourselves amused was to see if we could shut down phone enquiries before they were fully asked. Better than 9 times out of ten, it worked:

"Hi, I have a [year] Taurus, and" Sorry, we don't have a good 3.0 engine or AXOD transaxle for you.

"Hi, I have a [year] Caravan, and it" Sorry, we don't have a good A604 transaxle for you.

That kind of thing.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.