Ive been saving up to buy a Dart or Valiant in the upcoming year. I was looking at these two online.
http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/5339471666.html
http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/5334750523.html

I havent talked to the owners yet but I like how the first car looks. The only thing that makes me pause is that it says it is a 170. I dont have any experience with those motors and was wondering if the 225 would be a better choice?

_________________
~Nic

So do you prefer a four door?

_________________
ski

I would buy according to how much rust....you can swap in a 225 in a day....rust takes way longer to fix.

The cars look about the same value from here.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

170 is a fine motor. A bit less torque, but a higher rpm "redline."

For years I drove a 76 Volare with what I thought was a 225. I sold it to Kesteb who tore it down and discovered that it was actually a 170.

In a light car like a 63-64 Dart, even a sedan, a 170 would be fine.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Also, the seller of that '64 might be confused by "170" emblems on the car. The base-model Dodge Dart was designated "170" (the de luxe model was the "270"), but a Dart 170 doesn't necessarily have a 170 engine.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I prefer a coupe or wagon but I would buy a 4 door if it 1) runs and drives 2) is not all rusted out or in need of alot of body work.

_________________
~Nic

Is there a noticeable difference between the 225 and the 170? Or should I be looking for a casting number?

_________________
~Nic

Quickest way to tell is look at the length of the short water hose going from the top of the water pump into the underside of the head. If it's about 3" long, it's a 225 (or possibly a 198, if a 70-74 model). If the hose is about 2" long, it's a 170.

A more sure way is to check the numbers stamped into the flat part of the block that sticks out right behind the alternator bracket, front passenger side of the engine. I don't have any info on the correct numbers, though.

_________________
Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

I know what you are talking about. I got a 225 stamped on my motor in the same spot. But the hose length was new info for me.

_________________
~Nic

Slant spotter's guide:

The deck of a 170 block is about an inch shorter or lower than a 225, therefore the distance of short water tube between head and H2o pump varies by an inch or so between the two blocks.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

hi uncle d and other sl6 sages- interesting commentary about the 170 sl6. my first brush with a sl6 was 64 when my father bought a new 4 door basic model dart with a 170 and torqueflite. initial reaction was why was the engine leaning over like that. was a good car and a good engine. it was easy to work on and reliable as hell. wanted pop to get 3 pedals on the floor but he wouldnt. never took the head off that engine and was surprised to hear recently from a sl6er that the 170 was an interference engine. knew the 225 was not but always thought that the 170 was not interference unless some sage seeking more compression and power milled the head or block. 170s today are very uncommon finds. the 170 was a little sluggish with an automatic in the 64. years later had a 61 valiant coupe with a 170 and a factory 3 speed floorshift trans. that car had more scat probably since it was lighter than the 64. bet many of you didnt know that this 61 had a manual trans that was actually slanted with the engine. sadly both were claimed by rustouts from nj snow/salt at about age 15. rust and smashups killed most a and f bodies. regards bob f