Just installed a holley 390-4160-6299-1 (converted to a 4150 with secondary metering block) and am wondering what size jets you guys are using in primary and secondary..also what size PV is being used.
And did you have issues with initial start up?

thanks

Make sure you have the Dave Emmanuel book on Holley's as your bedside and lunchtime reader... you are going to want it to be familiar with the ins and outs of the Holley Carb.... and to make sure that all your carb settings (idle mix screws, idle speed set screw, primary and secondary throttle plate index, choke plate gap, etc...)

Original jetting on that carb should have been #50's in the primaries with a #34 secondary plate which would equal #52 jets... It should also have a .025 "shooter", and your secondary spring would have been plain...

If it's a mild build (say up to 9:1 SCR and an RV cam)...#50 or #51 primaries are a good start and #52 secondary jets are fine. What Acc cam color is installed and what position is the screw set at? Did you change the secondary spring?

If everything is set and indexed correctly and the bowls are full of fuel, you should not have a problem starting it (that being said long ram manifold, winter ambient temps aren't going to help until it's been dialed in close to get it lit off and running...), typically if the plate gap and idle hole/slot have not been indexed properly the car won't start for lack of air past the throttle plates to idle correctly... (Emmanuel Book has some good pictures to show you what to look for...)

Since Holley 4150/4160 carbs 1848 and 6299 were both meant for Ford vehicles - 6299 meant for use on the Pinto/ Mustang II 4 cylinder application...both carbs lack the 3/8" nipple at the base plate to hook the PCV into.... did you install a spacer plate and nipple for this?


I ran this same carb on a 10:1 SCR 225 w/ OS Valve ported head, offy intake, stock exhaust manifold with no riser valve, 2.25" exhaust all the way to the rear with turbo muffler... jetting was 51/53, orange acc cam- screw in #1, yellow short spring, PV was a 10.5...1/2" spacer plate under carb with 3/8" nipple for the PCV.

Late Duster 3spd manual and 3.55 rear gearing was a best of low/mid 17's in the 1/4....same engine with long ram manifold, duals, 200 lb lighter duster, same cfm carb (8007 instead) was mid 16's...

Dusteridiot, were you running the aussie long ram? Or clifford?

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

Early clifford.

I bet the 3.55 really brought that manifold to life. I'm running the aussie with the 8007 holley also. That seems to be a pretty good setup

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

thanks for the reply Dusteridiot...
I will have to get that book you mentioned, I presently have one by david viscard and another holley 4150/4160 book...
Presently, the engine is stock with plans to modify as the money is there for it. Figured id start with a used holley , learn from it, and try to get her going with that , then add things as time and money permit. My intake manifold is almost exactly the same length as the original 1 barrel (its an offy) . when you say the ACC cam colour, I assume you mean the cam for the choke, its either red or possibly orange (rather faded, so unsure) I have followed the holley manual the best I could, and adjusted things as it suggested. You are correct, no port for the PCV valve, so i'll have to find a base plate for that.
I will order that Emanuel book and proceed from there.

does(did) your car have the fueltank canister that also was connected to the original carb?..not sure where to attach those lines as well..

my pri jets are #50 and sec are #52..

That's the ACCelerator pump cam, and sometimes the color is hard to tell, you may need to pull it and look at the number stamp (466 for orange)...

Stock engine will be doggy with the 4 barrel and no 2.25" exhaust...so be prepared.... (it will be a learning experience...)

Yes. mine is a '76 I capped the lines to the carb at the canister, and left the line from the fuel tank to the canister connected to vent the fuel tank, with no ill effects.

I did this with my '79 D100 with no problems.

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~Nic

[quote="DusterIdiot"]

Since Holley 4150/4160 carbs 1848 and 6299 were both meant for Ford vehicles - 6299 meant for use on the Pinto/ Mustang II 4 cylinder application...both carbs lack the 3/8" nipple at the base plate to hook the PCV into.... did you install a spacer plate and nipple for this?

tried looking for a base plate at a local performance shop, they didn't have one that fit..was this something you made or purchased ? (if you bought it, can you recall part number /supplier?)

and thanks for the canister info guys..wasn't sure how that was going to be connected

In my opinion the charcoal canister is not needed in an average climate. I know thats a broad statement but I dont know how else to word it. In a very hot or cold climate I can see how it would add in cold and hot starting issues. However I dont have this issue so I blocked off mine just so it is one less thing to worry about.

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~Nic

the charcoal canister and related evap system improves gas mileage with no detriment to performance. there is no good reason to try to eliminate it. infact, im looking to add an evap system to my 62 eventually

I know I had to order it from Summit since they had a good selection of carb "spacers".... I will need to check my shop and see what size it was...
I think it was Summit or Transadapt spacer with "port" (you provide the nipple from your local plumbing aisle at Lowe's)....

thanks guys for your input..I'll try summit

Happy New Year to you all, and I hope you all have a great 2016.

I am running a 390 8006 with offie intake, dutra duals and a 244 street grind.
Pistons are .80 over. The engine hesitated and jumped horribly at first. That was with .51 primaries. Switched to .60 and all the roughness disappeared.

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The reason for that is you have a lean out and just applied a 'band aid' to the situation by over-richening the mix....if this occurred under 2000 rpm...it indicated you needed to work on your idle circuit mix better, and possibly needed to check your throttle plate indexing... If just taking a guess like that... the same effect can be had by raising the floats causing everything to be "rich"... 60-61 jets are stock primaries in the 600 cfm holleys...so be careful that you aren't washing down your cylinder walls at highway speeds.... (over rich mixes will give you more power -this is common in race prepped cars- since it provides more fuel during lean and low vacuum conditions- hence the 'band-aid', but the excess fuel carries the excess heat from the cylinders out of the engine, and the unburnt fuel just goes into the atmosphere....)

If doing any carb tuning and wanting the best set of tools to dial it in faster...I would add to the car: a vacuum gauge hooked to the nipple at the carb base so you can see the vacuum reading that the carb sees, and an O2 sensor with a gauge- wideband preferred. They will give you a good indication of throttle plate position what PV you should be running, and if your ratio is correct within the major areas - idle, transition, mains, power circuit, secondaries....

Just to head off others on the arguement/comment...if you didn't want to do this much tuning to each circuit, the edelbrock 500 cfm is pretty much plug and play out of the box for mild builds like this....