Is this the correct Seal orientation? (I am 99% sure, but just want to double check)


Suspension came together nicely! Now I need to save up for a New 20:1 ratio steering box!

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1964 Dart GT

Yes it is. You also need to turn the bolts around for the Lower ball joint as they are also the steering stops and the threaded end of the bolt would limit the turning radius not to mention damage the end of the bolt.

Brian

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63 Plymouth Valiant Wagon

Thanks Brian, but I think I am going to have to disagree with you on the placement of the Lower Ball Joint bolts. The Stops are built into the Ball Joints and the bolts hit nothing. Hopefully others will chime in on this.

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1964 Dart GT

Jack lower control arm up to ride height, than recheck those bolts for clearance.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

When I put those type of spindles on the Ruster project, I cut off the threaded part of the bolt that went past the nut - No problems.


I think they do function as the steering stop somehow.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I also cut off the lower BJ mounting bolts so they're flush with the nut. Like wjajr said, they'll probably hit when the suspension is actually in the loaded position. I'm also in the habit of using blue loc-tite on all these bolts just for insurance, but I don't know if it's really necessary in a street-driven car.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

SpaceFrank-blue loc-tite & cotter pins? That's like a Belt & Suspenders!

I will check the bolts again, once it's on the ground, but that is how they were on the parts car I removed them from.

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1964 Dart GT

Haha, no I don't use it on the actual ball joint-LCA connection. I just meant on the bolts. The big ones that connect the ball joint housing to the spindle, or the ones that connect the caliper bracket to the spindle. Definitely on the small bolts that attach the sliding caliper locking plates, whatever the hell those are called. Probably still overkill, but mine has to put up with road course abuse.

I had a caliper fall off my street car after I changed pads and re-used the slide pin bolts without adding new loctite. Granted that's a modern GM product, so loctite is about all that keeps it from rattling to pieces from the factory.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Car is on the ground. No problems with lower ball joint bolts. Brakes bleed out fine, but Calipers rattle over bumps(?)
How much should I bend the retaining clip to stop the rattle? It is the caliper and not the pad.

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1964 Dart GT

did you bend the tabs on the large (outer) brake pad so it just fits into place? That is recommended to reduce rattle.

b

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Yes, I made them a snug fit so they clicked into place.(outer pad) The little tab in the center of the Large Retaining Clip keeps the inner pad from rattling, and it seems to be doing it's job.
The rattling I am having a problem with is the movement of the Caliper itself. It is not much, but it does rattle on bumps and Brick Streets! (I live in an old town)

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1964 Dart GT

the picture I posted above is not my car. It just showed the retaining clip better then any other picture I had.
I installed my calipers in a forward mount set-up.

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1964 Dart GT

I bent the retaining clip and it reduced the rattling, but did not make it go away completely. Is there something obvious that I am missing?

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1964 Dart GT