IIRC the white wire is the power wire which gets it power from the windshield wiper switch. That's the way it is wired on my 65. The purple wire finally ends up at the back-up lights. Hope this is of some help.

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014

If you have an ohm meter or continuity tester, test the switch.

It should only be closed in reverse.

Why would some one destroy the stock wiring? Switch stuck closed... Reverse lights on all the time?

Maybe the car was originally radio delete? Some one stealing 12 V to power their new radio?

Apply 12 V to the purple wire. Back up lights come on?

We're getting closer to the prize! Keep at it!!!

Ok I spent some time today looking for the other end of the 2 cut wires and this is what I found. Right above the Back-up switch that I pictured on my prior post where it shows the cut violet and white wires, there's a newer style BULK HEAD CONNECTOR. Going into that B-Head connectr is a mass of wires, and coming from that mass of wires is where I found another CUT violet & white wire. These wires are just above the steering column where the other cut wires are ( that I pictured before ).

So in my simple logic I assume then that this obviously must be the other end of the violet & white wires I was looking for ..I mean the colors match, they're nearby, it's gotta be them. I spliced them back together and assumed that my back up lights would work once again. NOT SO MUCH, I started the car put into reverse but no lights. STRIKE 1!

I then disconnected the splices and ran a 12v power to the violet wire that's coming from the bck-up switch on the steering column ..this is the violet wire I first found cut and pictured in my earlier post. I started the car and the back up lights didn't come on in reverse or park or anything.STRIKE 2!

Since that violet wire was a bust, I ran the 12v power to the other cut violet wire I found today that comes from the mass of wires headed to the Bulk-H connector. Started the car and FINALLY the back up lights were shining bright, so they do work and that's A HIT!

I also discovered that the other cut white wire that I found today ( right next to the violet) has power going to it but only when the car is on, it loses power when you turn the key off.

SO after all this what do I know, well I'm not sure. Maybe you guys trying to help can glean some solution from all that I've discovered, perhaps the back-up switch on the column is bad ..I don't know? I think we're gettin close to something though. Anyway I hope the pics help orientate you with what I'm describing in words and sorry that it is rather wordy ..but let me know.
Cut wires 1 by BionicSix, on Flickr
Cut wires 2 by BionicSix, on Flickr

This is the wire that connects to the output of the reverse light switch.
This is the wire that connects to the input of the reverse light switch.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Have an ohmmeter? Test light? Do you understand how to test the switch?

Since you aren't my next door neighbor, and I can't loan you tools or look at it myself, allow me to explain. Please take no offense if you have it under control.

Conventional theory says electrons flow from + to - . Since you have them at the white wire, connect that to the switch. It should be fused in the fuse panel. Check and verify that it is in fact fused. If you have to pull fuses one by one to verify that white wire goes dead when you pull the fuse, do it.

When you have potential voltage at the switch, it should only close and flow electrons through the switch when the gear selector chooses reverse. There may even be an adjustment for when the switch closes. If that switch closes when you want it to... You're home free! Connect the purple wire.

I cannot overemphasize checking for a fuse in the circuit.

Unfused 16 gauge wire shorted from positive to ground will glow red hot, melt insulation, and set carpet or padding on fire in about one second.

Protect your car.

Those are really good questions. Scottdart, get the three books described in this thread ASAP.
Yes. This is also why we do not "test" wiring and circuits by randomly hooking +12v to random wires we've found under the dash.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I connected the white wires back together turned the key on and got my test light and touched to one of the places where the violet wires terminates into the reverse light switch. One of the connect points did not light my test light but the other one did, so I am getting power up to the switch. I was going to snap a pic to show my connection and test light result but while I was touching the test light again to the input side of the switch I blew a fuse. The fuse that blew was a 5amp that has the radio/back-up on it. So was the fuse too small ( the block list a 5amp for that slot) or something I did when I got power to the switch for my test??

More tests tomorrow, but I'm leaning towards a faulty switch and if thats the case, can it be removed and corrected or would one be better off replacing ..just thinking ahead.

The switch is not easy to find. It's not made to be taken apart and cleaned, but you may be able to figure out how to clean it (might respond to a good soaking with Caig DeOxit or similar).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

took it out to have look-see, and it was a tad messy but there's really not much to it. I noticed the protruding "prong" mechanism that slides across on the back. It does require a little force to slide it but there is a spring there that's is adding resistance so I guess it's not meant to slide easily.
I figure there's something that's in the steering column that extends up and engages that prong when in reverse gear and pushes it across. If it's a mechanical interaction that is, or maybe it's moved somehow electrically. I don't know, I'll get some rest and beat this tomorrow ..I hope. Thanks fella's for the input so far G-NIGHT!

It is a mechanical finger that moves with the shifter and touches the lever on the reverse light switch.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well my friends I think I found the reason why all my efforts with the electrical/wiring probs regaring my back-up lights were'nt panning out ... Last night I removed the reverse switch from the steering column just to look at it close and maybe see a problem with it ..but it seems OK and I went to bed.

This morning I went to take a closer look at the column itself now that the switch was gone and see if there's a problem down there ...BINGO!

There apears to be NO "mechanical finger" in place to move the switch, all I have is a hole where something should be attached. Take a look a the pictures below and see if you agree, and what I can do about correcting the problem. I hope its just a matter of getting a part to re-attach, and not pulling out the whole column ..let me know.
IMG_0444 by BionicSix, on Flickr

That would certainly 'splain it. Your best bet is probably to fetch a piece of brass or aluminum rod or wooden dowel of the appropriate diameter, cut it to the appropriate length, and epoxy glue it in place.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Another option would be to convert to the later style switch that incorporates the reverse lamp feed into the NSS. but that would involve messing with the wiring, which you may not want to get into.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

...and with the transmission, which would require a different rooster-comb (shift selector). That kind of conversion is definitely a much larger job than just replacing the actuator finger for the '68-type switch.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Wow. I didn't know that either! Yeah, epoxy and a dowel is the way to go.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.