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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 6:56 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 1:11 am
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Location: North Georgia
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Yep, my slant had one of those aluminum intakes and it wasn't pretty, but like Reed said a good coat of epoxy paint will cure it. I had driveability problems and went through 4 different carburetors (rebuilt 3 myself) before I figured it out. Power brake booster causing a vacuum leak.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 3:28 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2015 11:12 am
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Location: Jacksonville, Fl
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It has a few exhaust leaks one of which seems to be at the head. When I pull the manifolds off i'll clean up the intake and paint it to be sure. I still need to make the adapter Reed pointed me to, replace engine mounts, ps hose, valve cover gasket and see where else the leaks are and replace the dive belts.

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Sean
67 Valiant slant 6
86 Ram LWB slant 6
And a few V-8 Mopars


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 4:49 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2015 11:12 am
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Location: Jacksonville, Fl
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Today I went up to work to work on the truck some more and take it on its maiden voyage with me as the owner. I noticed the kickdown rod is rubbing the pinch weld area on the firewall. I took some more photos of whats going on in hopes that you guys can give me insight on what the previous owner may have done. He or his Dad who owned the truck before him has obviously done more than just drive the truck.

What is the large round apparatus on the exhaust manifold controlling?

Image

Also you can see soot on the block from a long time exhaust leak.
Heres some pics of the linkage and throttle cable:

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Sean
67 Valiant slant 6
86 Ram LWB slant 6
And a few V-8 Mopars


Last edited by Chicken Helmet on Sat Jan 23, 2016 5:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 5:11 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8626
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Just put a little more of a bend in the rod and then re-adjust the kick down. I had one that did the same thing.

Rick

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 5:46 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2015 11:12 am
Posts: 40
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
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Quote:
Just put a little more of a bend in the rod and then re-adjust the kick down. I had one that did the same thing.

Rick
Thanks. I was wondering if it could be that easy. Guess I was over thinking it.

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Sean
67 Valiant slant 6
86 Ram LWB slant 6
And a few V-8 Mopars


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 5:52 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Posts: 1473
Location: North Georgia
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That round thing controls the heat flapper. Many people remove it thinking it'll give them horsepower, but in actuality it greatly aids in cold weather operation. If it moves freely and doesn't leak exhaust fumes, leave it alone.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 5:56 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2015 11:12 am
Posts: 40
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
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Quote:
That round thing controls the heat flapper. Many people remove it thinking it'll give them horsepower, but in actuality it greatly aids in cold weather operation. If it moves freely and doesn't leak exhaust fumes, leave it alone.
Could that be the source of the exhaust soot on the side of the block?

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Sean
67 Valiant slant 6
86 Ram LWB slant 6
And a few V-8 Mopars


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 6:00 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 1:11 am
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Location: North Georgia
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Could be, but usually a leak in that area comes from the gasket between the manifolds at the heat box.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 6:04 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2015 11:12 am
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Location: Jacksonville, Fl
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Quote:
Could be, but usually a leak in that area comes from the gasket between the manifolds at the heat box.
Ok. They're coming off hopefully in a couple weeks to address that and any potential cracks in the intake.

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Sean
67 Valiant slant 6
86 Ram LWB slant 6
And a few V-8 Mopars


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 6:15 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 1:11 am
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Location: North Georgia
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One bit of advice; when you try to separate the manifolds there is a near hundred percent chance the bolts will snap off flush. Soak everything in PB Blaster or your chemical of choice and just *maybe* only one will snap.

When reassembling, leave the heat box bolts kinda loose until everything is bolted back on the head. Trust me on this.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 6:29 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2015 11:12 am
Posts: 40
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
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Quote:
One bit of advice; when you try to separate the manifolds there is a near hundred percent chance the bolts will snap off flush. Soak everything in PB Blaster or your chemical of choice and just *maybe* only one will snap.

When reassembling, leave the heat box bolts kinda loose until everything is bolted back on the head. Trust me on this.
Lol, I'm all ears.

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Sean
67 Valiant slant 6
86 Ram LWB slant 6
And a few V-8 Mopars


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 6:36 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: North Georgia
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Somewhere on this site is a good prescription for replacing the gaskets and manifold reassembly. In my haste I didn't read it. I figured it would be smart to bolt the heat box together real tight and that would make putting the manifolds on the head easy. But the manifolds are made to slide, and bolting the heat box tightly made the exhaust a little bit off level. So I get it all put together and POP POP POP goes the #6 exhaust port. Goodbye gasket! So I had to start over and do it right the second time.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 7:54 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13031
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Manifold installation article


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 4:40 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2015 11:12 am
Posts: 40
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
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Quote:
Yep, that will definitely come in handy.

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Sean
67 Valiant slant 6
86 Ram LWB slant 6
And a few V-8 Mopars


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 6:12 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1603
Car Model:
There is a bolt and nut in the fail safe throttle return slotted bracket, that should not be there. That slot is there to allow carb to return to idle in case of linkage failure. Where the nut and bolt are, That spot should be at carb throttle link pin all the time, held there by kick down return spring [/url]


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