No, you should put in a real air cleaner. Using one of those open-element types means you're walking away from driveability, performance, and fuel economy you could easily be picking up with a stock-type air cleaner.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I hear ya dan but I dont think a stock air cleaner will work with my 4bbl.

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~Nic

You have several choices for a stock air cleaner that will fit a four barel carb: (1) Get an air cleaner for a 318 or 360 that came stock with a four barrel (these are getting expensive these days); (2) get an air cleaner for a 360 that came stock with a two barrel (slightly more common and less expensive); (3) get an air cleaner from a late 80s to early 90s throttle body injected Dodge truck or van; or (4) get an air cleaner form a brand X vehicle that came stock with a foour barrel. Watch for air cleaners from Ford V-8 powered vehicles that had a 302 or 351 HO motor, or older full size Cadillacs.

Yup…lots of options for "stock-like" air cleaners to fit a 4bbl. Doesn't matter what brand of vehicle it comes from, All it has to do is fit the carb and have the correct-diameter fitting on the underside of the snorkel for the hot-air duct. See if the plastic one from an '88 to early '89 Dodge D- or W-series pickup truck (with TBI) will drop onto your 4bbl. Other options don't necessarily even need to be the traditional kind; you might look at the panel-type air cleaner from an '89-'93 Chevrolet Caprice (or similar vehicle) with 5.0/305 or 5.7/350 engine and TBI. I don't remember if those have a round seat or not. But some strolls through the yards ought to turn up something.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Alright, I thought you meant for the stock 1bbl. I might have to rob the one off my moms '77 Seville. I was surprised to see it was a TBI 350. If it works I know where another one is.

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~Nic

You can even find late model cars/trucks that use a remote mount air filter box and have a snorkel that clamps to the air horn on the carb/throttle body. However, those likely won't have provision for the heated air intake system.

Option #1 works fine if it's a Carter Carb or Wrongchester...some massage work necessary if it's going on a holley...

Option #2 will require some sheet metal work as the throat on a 2245 is nothing like the throat on a 4150/4160 or the AFB/AVS/TQ (I have one off a mid-70's 360 - Holley 2245 B-body...throat is too small by about 5/8" diameter... your buddy at a local sheetmetal shop might be able to spotweld a new throat and open it up....but the snorkel is a little long...

Dan,

Nice article. They recommend 3/8" clearance; my baffles are about 3/8" away from the inside surface of the valve cover, but the PVC is at the top of a stove pipe which is a couple inches above the baffles. I doubt oil could pool in there or make it up the stove pipe to the PVC. That said, when I change the oil, my catch can usually has about an ounce (30 mL) or two of oil in it.

Makes sense that you'd want to block direct splashing toward the PVC valve, but allow sufficient "openness" so that strong airflow through narrow gaps isn't established, otherwise suck oil through there.

Brian

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The first baffle they used was shaped so it acted like a funnel.

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