Ya Likely not pick up again try to just jump the pos coil right to battery and see if has spark

Try jumping power to pos coil from battery and see if there's spak

You connect the clip to the positive on the coil and positive on the battery, right?

Yes try that and see

When I hooked up the positive side of the coil to the positive on the battery, I removed it quickly and saw a dull Orange spark jump from the connection. Key was off, but the motor acted like I bumped the starter. Is that normal?

It appears you made a spark in a cylinder with a combustible mixture. That would lead me to believe that the ignition coil is functional.

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Joshua

Ya that's normal try to start it with the wire hooked up now

So I tried to start it up again with the wire from + Coil to +BATT. MY oil and e-brake lights flickered on like the key was in the "run" position, even though my key wasn't even in. Tried to start, NO START. Not even a spark from the in-line spark tester!

Ya that will power up the whole. Car . check that the ignition module is grounded well

My ECU is very well grounded. Paint sanded off the back, star lock washers with fresh bolts. To even make sure again, I clipped one of the bolts to the -BATT for ground. Then I tried to jump the coil again. Still, not even a hiccup. No spark still. Something must be wrong with the wiring, and that is definitely not something I am even knowledgeable about. I have not messed with the bulkhead connector or anything under the dash, but it looks like I might have to.

So if I have (albeit a weak) spark when I jump the +coil to +BATT, does that mean my problem lies in either my wires or distributor? Or it it because I'm jumping it and bypassing the rest of the ignition system that it doesn't matter?

Likely bad module or pickup coil or coil gap to wide

I am starting to think it is my module, even though I just bought that 3 weeks ago. The mag pickup I just replaced and it is in good shape. Gapped at .006" with a brass feeler. I was looking underneath my dash for anything corroded, especially at the ammeter. Everything looks almost brand new underneath; super clean, no corrosion, nothing disconnected. Looked at the bulkhead connector with the brown ignition wire. They looked a little dirty like I expected, but nothing melted or looking corroded. I know I have to test them for values. But for whatever reason, the wire harness for the module shows all the correct values, but fails to get the spark out. I know there is a fusible link. Then there is the bulkhead. Then there is two wires to the ammeter. Then there are the ignition wires that goes into the bulkhead, that goes into the starter relay. That's not exact lol, but I'm trying to piece it together. So far, visibly at least, nothing looks out of the ordinary. I will continue tomorrow.

That makes it more likely to be the cause. Walk in a parts store today and ask for an ECU (or voltage regulator, etc) and you'll almost certainly be handed a poorly-made piece of junk from China.

Here is a diagnostic technique you might want to try out: start the car. Put a hot hairdryer so its output is directly on the component you suspect (ECU, coil, whatever). See if you can stall the car by heating up the component. If so...there's your culprit.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan is right you will likely get a part from china I have had trouble with voltage regulators all the time just get used ones they are usually free or$5 and usually don't fail

omitted

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC