Car sat all winter started last summer 225 slant 6 1975 dart custom
Charged the battery turned the key only clicks no start?

but there is some sort of yellowish sticky substance around all 3 of the electronic equipment under the hood.
when I turn the key I get lights , wipers, heater all work just no start?

any suggestions?

Remove the negative battery cable from the battery and then the positive cable. Clean the cables and terminals. Reconnect in the reverse order of removal. Check the battery for full charge, 12.6V or greater.

Make sure the car is fully in park. Try shifting to neutral in case the neutral safety switch is out of adjustment.

Check that battery voltage is available at the starter relay output when the key is in the cranking position.

If this doesn't make sense you'll want to pick up a factory service manual for your car.

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Joshua

Yellowish sticky substance sounds like corrosion. Corrosion in the connections will inhibit electron flow. Old corroded cables will also inhibit flow.

While the battery is disconnected, you might also loosen and retighten those cable connections to remove corrosion and clean the connections, including the negative cable connection to the block.

Or the potting material melting out of the regulator, ignition module, etc. Maybe post a pic?

It's also possible that even if the battery charged up to voltage it's capacity is severely diminished. Take it's voltage reading while the key is in the crank position. It should be above 9-10v. If it's lower, the battery is done.

That's common on OEM modules and what I got out of his posts....so those may need a replace.

Put the car in park, turn the key to "on" not start, then try to cross the ignition posts with a screwdriver and gloved hand at the relay on the firewall...and see what happens...

will get a image of the melting posted, battery was charged first.
John

Even after charging battery, if it has a bad cell or is on its last legs it won't hold enough of a charge to turn over the engine. Letting it sit all winter slowly discharging will shorten its life if its voltage drops too low. One should remove battery from car, clean its top to reduce parasitic electron flow between terminals, place on wood and connect to a battery maintainer charging device during winter storage. Come spring you will have a happy battery.

As advised above, clean and remake all electrical connections to battery, and block as well as any other corroded connections found.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

the wood is unnecessary, that's a solution to a problem that predates the invention of plastic

http://www.homepower.com/articles/solar ... s-concrete

how do I post images to this forum

John

You have to use a free image hosting service such as photobucket and then link to it. Sometimes your ISP gives you a limited amount of web space also.

posted images of the leakage
by the way its not the battery I put a new one in and the same thing just clicks

If it just clicks on a new battery, most likely the starter is toast or the connections are corroded.

...but... it looks like the potting is decomposing on the Ignition Module, and the EGR timer module (no real loss on that module...), so eventually getting a replacement or upgrading to the HEI module would be on your list. Neither is causing your current condition, but the EI module could tank on you at any time (and it's 40 years old...)

Sticky yellow stuff:

Usually found on hubcaps, compliments of local alley cats.

First one's ignition... if one of the others is egr, what's the third one? There should also be one more similar looking module - 3 wires, triangular connector. The regulator... on the firewall by the master cylinder.

Yes sometimes these modules lose their potting guts, but I have a bit of a challenge believing all 3 modules did this on the same car. If the second field wire shorted to ground somewhere the alternator could have put out full tilt and fried stuff.

I've been down the melted epoxy route with an ignition module before. It ran flawlessly like that for 5 years. Your problem sounds like not enough power getting where it needs to go. Check all contacts and if that doesn't work, I'd suspect something is wrong inside the starter. I had one seize completely over the winter for no particular reason.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.